View Full Version : Oh man, I sure messed up this time...

11-20-2004, 11:13 PM
Ok...I need to know what I do to fix my little issue here...

I took my Strat copy apart so I could stripe it up...I basically ripped the wiring connecting to the input jack so i could get it out and have one solid wood body with no metal or wiring on it. My only issue is what do I do now? I am too nervous to solder it myself because with my luck I will screw up...Will guitar stores jump at the opportunity to make a few bucks from a poor kid who messed up, or is there another way out? Also, it wasn't working when I took it apart, so I assume I would have to take it to a shop anyways, because I sure as hell can't figure out what the problem is.

My questions are:

1)What should I do(Risk doing it myself or bring it in)
2)How much do you think they would try to get outta me?

I feel so freakin' stupid...I just wanted a cool lookin' guitar now I'm worried I might have to just throw the parts away...:-(

Please Help,

11-20-2004, 11:15 PM
I forgot to add, I'm left handed as well...So it might have been even more of a waste...

11-21-2004, 02:54 AM
Relax, I don't think you messed up things too bad - although I don't understand what "striping" a guitar and tearing out the wiring have to do with the other. What I also don't understand is this whole "solid wood body with no metal or wiring on it." But my best guess is that you wanted to reduce single-coil pick up "hum" or "buzz." ??

For one, single-coil pick ups just hum (without getting into specifics), particularly around electrical sources that have "free floating ions" such as neon signs or halogen lights (also cause tranformers in amps to buzz, but that's another story). Even though Fender has come out with the amazing "Noiseless" pickups that give great low-end without any buzz, chances are they didn't come with a Strat copy.

One way to help reduce single-coil buzz has nothing to do with wiring at all, but shielding behind the pick-guard. There is (if memory serves) a nickle paint that you can buy to which you apply to the back of the pick guard - but be careful, that shit is highly toxic and can cause damage to your instrument's finish if done in haste this is why I personally don't recommend entire body cavitiy shielding). For more on this subject (even though I don't agree with everything this guys says) GO HERE:


Second, replacing and re-soldering guitar input jacks should be very cheap - providing you do it yourself. On most guitars, from Fenders, to Les Pauls most input jacks are the same:

A simple quarter-inch input with a lead and a ground prong. By the way, if you do not know what wire coming from the pick up is either lead or ground, I highly suggest looking at a schematic before soldering. They are realtivity cheap and are available at most Radio Shacks for about $3-4 (just about any electronic store in your area should carry them). There is little you can do to "screw up" replacing one of them unless you are really, really bad at soldering in which case, just practice with scrap wire on the old input jack.

It's hard to reply to your post becuase I'm really not sure what you are asking so I'm just guessing replacing the input jack or proper shielding to reduce single-coil hum. If you do take it to a store, chances are they will charge around $15-$30 for labor and parts (I should know, I've replaced many a input jack and the bill usually came to that). If it comes to professional repair, here's a word or two of advice:

1. Get an estimate for the work you want done. If they can't give you one, then turn around and find someone who will.

2. Make it clear of the work you only want done! In other words, I knew plenty a player who took their instrument in for repair for an input jack which should have cost them around $15 and ended up paying around $50 for they changed strings, re-adjusted the bridge, neck, re-intonation "hidden" soldering and other shit that wasn't required or even asked for by the customer. It's like taking your car in for an oil simple oil change only to find ouy that they replaced the transmission and put on a new set of tires.

3. Also make sure they are qualified in instrument repair - ask how many years they've been doing it and that they know what in the fuck they are talking about. I knew from working in a Fender guitar shop that the people from Fender offer repair training which is kind of gay: there's a bronze, silver and gold repair status depening upon your degree of training - from basic to that of binding and re-fretting. (I myself was going for the silver one before we went out of business) If they are trying to con you into a "neck adjust" or "bridge action" ask them what that means, and why your instrument needs to have it done.

If you are not sure of what I'm even talking about then take along a friend who knows guitars or read up on what a "neck adjust" is yourself so that you have a common knowledge into not getting screwed into paying for something that you don't need. Trust me, a LOT of musical instrument repair stores do this.

Again, I'm not sure I fully understand your post, but replacing a input jack is a simple task and inexpensive when done by yourself. Hope this helps in some way.

11-21-2004, 06:54 AM
Sorry I didn't make it clear...I am planning on painting it with EVH stripes, and I had to break the wires off of the input jack to get the out of the body. I took the wires out of the body just to make spray painting it easier...Sorry for the confusion.

11-23-2004, 05:22 PM
You shouldn't even need to replace the jack if it was working ok. Are you that afraid to solder the wires back to the jack?

11-26-2004, 10:55 AM
Uhh...Actually yes, because I failed Tech in school last year lol...I have no friggin clue what to do to get the biatch working all I know is I'm going to bring it to a store probably...

11-26-2004, 11:08 AM

Relax dude...

I'm a guitar freak...

I play, break, fix, repair, build, paint, polish, adjust, admire, and dream guitars...

Any questions or trouble you have, I will try my best to help...;)


11-29-2004, 04:02 PM
If you can just worry about the paint to the point where you are finished and can reassemble everything correctly, three points you should remeber are:

1. The 2 lower neck screws go in at an angle, to "pull" the neck down against the end of the slot. Clear the pocket of tape and any uneven debris beforehand, then push the neck down in with the butt of the guitar on the desk, then push the angle of the lower 2 neck screws "up" the opposite direction using a good #2 hardened tip screwdriver and drive those suckers in tight: if you stripped the heads, it is definately worth it to replace them all at this time. Then, drive the upper 2 screws in just straight down, with the top of the body down on the table tightening the fuck out of those 2 - most important IMO

2. The lack of a groundwire soldered to the bridge trem claw in back is the biggest fright when you first plug in a recently refurbed guitar you put back together, but don't worry. That buzzing that wasn't there before goes away if you solder that wire back on: if you can't find it, just use #24 or #26 gauge 7 strand wire (Radio Shacks got em in all the pretty colors), preferrably black, from the back of the volume or tone pot to the solder blob on the trem claw. Its very important but often overlooked in home rebuilds I have seen.

3. If you can't put it all back together mechanically, you will have to pay about $120-150 for a repair guy to do so which should include the simple wiring if you have all the pots and parts. If you just need it wired, assemble and take it to the guy - I would expect $25 to $45 to be in the ballpark, because for me it would take about 2 mins to rewire if all the parts (switch, jack, pots n capacitor) are assembled.

You'll save lots of money reassembling it even though it seems like an overwhelming task. So you strip the fuck out of some screws? BIG DEAL I do that alot because screw metal temper varies all over the place especially if its some Chink guitar.

Its hard to fuck up a guitar because even the smaller screws and other fasteners are replaceable and common to do so in a rebuild like this.