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bueno bob
03-08-2005, 03:29 AM
OK, here's my deal - just bought a '97 Kia Sephia (and driving it is much like a dream, considering I've been banging around in a beat up '88 Ford Aerostar family van for the last two and a half years or so). The thing runs great, just took it out for a 50 mile test drive and didn't have any problems, handled like it was brand new.

Here's my issue.

I've got several dummy lights on, those being "check engine", the battery "charge" light and the "gas" light. The gas is fine - had a near full tank when I started, closing in on over half a tank now, so there's no real issue with the gas in the tank. Now, in so far as the "charge" and "check engine" lights are concerned, the battery is fine (just bought a brand new one for it yesterday as the old battery in it wasn't holding a charge); ran the lights, heater, CD player, et al, and if there was a problem with the alternator, I'd imagine it would have died in, oh, ten seconds tops - not made it for a fifty mile trip with no problems.

There is a belt issue somewhere, as it does a fair amount of squealing under the hood, and since I don't seem to have any issues with the battery or the alternator, I'm wondering if maybe I just have a bad alternator belt, and that could be what's causing all the dummy lights (or, at the very least, the "check engine" and "charge" lights...I don't know why the "gas" light would be on, but maybe it's just a sensor malfunction?).

If anybody has any insight, it'd be totally bitchin'. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow anyway, I was just hoping that somebody with some technical expertise into automotives might be able to point me in the right direction so I don't end up spending umpteen hundreds of dollars on repairs that may not be necessary.

Thanks Kids!

Rikk
03-08-2005, 03:32 AM
I'm no expert in any way...but my SERVICE engine has been coming on for three years and my mechanic has checked everything. It turned out to just be a chip issue. Those lights are always fucking up because of an electronic issue that ain't related whatsoever to any engine problem. I also doubt very much if the belt could cause the light to come on like that. Plus, the gas and battery lights coming on without reason also proves that it's probably an electronic malfunction.

Again, I'm no expert, but that's just my opinion.

bueno bob
03-08-2005, 03:35 AM
Cool beans, buddy! Music to my ears - let's hope you're right!

So what the fuck's going on in this place tonight, anyway?

Rikk
03-08-2005, 03:40 AM
Kinda dead tonight, huh? Methinks KATYDID waltzed in and opened her legs.;)

Oh, absolutely still make sure you take it in and get it checked out. Better safe than sorry. And replace the belt if you have to anyway. Another thing you shouldn't fuck around with.

bueno bob
03-08-2005, 03:52 AM
Originally posted by Rikk
Methinks KATYDID waltzed in and opened her legs.;)

Excuse me while I blank that image from my head - be right back...

twonabomber
03-08-2005, 04:16 AM
the "check engine" light is almost always an emissions issue. probably an oxygen sensor or something.

bueno bob
03-08-2005, 04:19 AM
Hmm...actually I was kinda wondering about that. Well, like I said, it's going into the shop tomorrow for the general lookover, so hopefully it won't come to too much cash if any repairs are needed. I unfortunately live right in the county where emissions checks are a necessity, which is a pain in the ass because the last county I lived in didn't require them, but...oh well...

I'll ask them about it tomorrow.

Nitro Express
03-08-2005, 04:33 AM
Multiple warning light coming on or warning lights on when there isn't a problem is usually a A) Bad sensor B) a computer problem or C) a wiring problem.

You can pull the codes from the car's computer and that will usually tell you if a sensor is bad. If the car is new, just let the dealer handle the problem, they get all sorts of memo regarding car problems and on modern cars, electronic problems are very common.

I have a 31 Ford coupe hot rod with a old fashioned breaker point ignition. I keep it tuned up but that car is so reliable. I've been through two new Chevy Suberbans. One had a faulty engine that burned oil and the second one had catastrophic failure in the front transaxle. My wife's car has had non-stop electrical problems. My old classic cars hardly ever give me problems, it's the new ones that suck donkeys dicks.

smaz
03-08-2005, 06:32 PM
I'd say take it to a few different mechanics. If they all say the same thing, then what they say is right. However, if they all say different things, they're bullshitting you :)

Also, if you bought it like that, and are taking it back to the dealers, can you not get them to repair it for free? 'Coz if it costs too much, just say take it back, give me my money, and I'll buy another one elsewhere. That'll sort 'em out :)

classicdude
03-08-2005, 07:02 PM
Smaz is right. I just bought a 2000 F150 4X4 not even a month ago and the 'check engine' light came on AFTER I had it initially checked out by an independent mechanic and after I bought the vehicle. You better believe that dealer fixed it for free. Those lights can mean anything. You may even have a spark plug fouled, although you might notice the car running rough if that was the case. Good luck man!

twonabomber
03-08-2005, 08:17 PM
even a loose gas cap can set off the check engine light...

i gotta tune my rig up, got emissions testing next month.

Rikk
03-08-2005, 08:20 PM
The reason I think the light is what's in error is because his gas light and battery light are also coming on, and those are definitely not a problem. The engine light can fuck up quite easily, actually.

rustoffa
03-08-2005, 08:30 PM
Originally posted by twonabomber
even a loose gas cap can set off the check engine light...


Yep.

This dude I work with bought one of the new GTO's..400 HP. I should start a thread about how killer that thing is.

Anyway, his light came on and he was just losing it....turns out it was the gas cap.

Apparently, he has to make sure it clicks 4 times. These are little fucking clicks...I was like, "did you eat your fucking wheaties?"

Man, that car is the shit...six-speed tranny...VERY fast.

twonabomber
03-08-2005, 08:33 PM
GTO is on my short list, but since i don't get a discount on GM products, i probably won't get one.

Nickdfresh
03-08-2005, 08:44 PM
Originally posted by twonabomber
GTO is on my short list, but since i don't get a discount on GM products, i probably won't get one.

I can't afford that unfortunately, but interesting you guys brought that up since I just saw one this evening. Kind of rare here in winter.

Back to Bob's problem, probably just a minor emissions thing. I've heard those lights can come on automatically after a certain milage just to make you do what you are about to do, take it to the dealer and get charged to hook it up to the computer (that's Ford I believe). But I'd tune it up and as twonabomber said, change the oxygen sensor. If nothing else, your gas milage will increase.

rustoffa
03-08-2005, 08:58 PM
Originally posted by twonabomber
GTO is on my short list, but since i don't get a discount on GM products, i probably won't get one.

It's really impressive, the car is shipped from Australia minus the motor and tranny.

Just extremely solid...the doors have a really beefy swing. Quality control is through the roof.

It's kind of unassuming-looking which is killer as well.

The Scatologist
03-09-2005, 12:46 AM
Oooh Oooh I know how to fix it!

Get some red, white and black spray paint and some tape of varying widths, and stripe your car, then get some Blue, Yellow, and Red Paint and make the VHII logo on the side!

bueno bob
03-09-2005, 04:24 AM
Originally posted by The Scatologist
Oooh Oooh I know how to fix it!

Get some red, white and black spray paint and some tape of varying widths, and stripe your car, then get some Blue, Yellow, and Red Paint and make the VHII logo on the side!

Dude, it worked! All my dummy lights say "Bottoms Up!" now!!

smaz
03-09-2005, 05:42 AM
GTO....

My dad has a Mitsobishi GTO, twin turbo thing. Lovely :) Fast as hell, and sounds good...

Cathedral
03-09-2005, 10:14 AM
Bob, I will tell you how to fix that car.

Put a For Sale sign on it and sell it as quick as you can.

Then buy a Dodge, lol.

Problem solved... :)

I have been toying with the idea of trading my '99 Ram in for a new Rumble Bee with the Hemi.
The price is right at $30,810, but i kind of enjoy not having a car payment right now.
I've been making car payments since i was 18 years old. :(

But just look at this baby, and when the '06 comes out the '05 will come down in price a bit...this may be a September purchase.

Brett
03-09-2005, 04:07 PM
'05 Mustang GT boys. Had to order it because the demand is ridiculous and the mark up on the lots is ridiculous as well. I'll probably see it by mid-2006. :)

GTO's are hideous, look like Grand Ams. You could put 500 HP in that, am I'm not spending $34k on a freaking Grand Am with a big engine. Yeah they're fast, but man that styling is naaaaaasty.

MAX
03-09-2005, 04:46 PM
Originally posted by Brett
GTO's are hideous, look like Grand Ams. You could put 500 HP in that, am I'm not spending $34k on a freaking Grand Am with a big engine. Yeah they're fast, but man that styling is naaaaaasty.

Yep.

I was so stoked about three years ago when I first heard they were bringing back the GTO's. Then I saw the friggin' pics. Nothing more than a Grand Am/Prix (Can't really tell the difference nor wish to. lol) and said to myself YUCK!!!

Stupid, STUPID cars.

Soooooo........

Gettin' a new "Mustake" eh, Brett? J/K :p

Rikk
03-09-2005, 04:51 PM
Originally posted by Brett
'05 Mustang GT boys. Had to order it because the demand is ridiculous and the mark up on the lots is ridiculous as well. I'll probably see it by mid-2006. :)

Where you live, it's worth driving one. Up here, you can drive it maybe eight months of the year. My friend crashed his two winters ago!!!

MAX
03-09-2005, 04:54 PM
I want one of these as a fun car.

http://www.vaiden.net/chevy_ssr.jpg

Unfortunately, it's not too practical so the next new car will be an Avalanche. My Suburban still works for now though and it's only five years old.

smaz
03-09-2005, 05:00 PM
Where'd my pic go???

smaz
03-09-2005, 05:04 PM
This one...

Brett
03-09-2005, 09:51 PM
Originally posted by Rikk
Where you live, it's worth driving one. Up here, you can drive it maybe eight months of the year. My friend crashed his two winters ago!!!

I have an '01 GT, so I'm basically just replacing it.

Max, I've had zero problems with my car in four years. Nothing, I haven't even put brakes on the fucking thing, and that's 50,000 miles too.

The new GT's are just such a step up from the old ones in every way, and so much fucking faster, it's sickening. But Ford being the pricks they are are milking this bullshit, and dealers are marking up what few GT's they get, $3-4k unless you order one, which I was forced to do. But I am paying $2k under sticker for it. Of course I have to get the dumb thing first.

MAX
03-09-2005, 09:58 PM
Originally posted by Brett
I have an '01 GT, so I'm basically just replacing it.

Max, I've had zero problems with my car in four years. Nothing, I haven't even put brakes on the fucking thing, and that's 50,000 miles too.

The new GT's are just such a step up from the old ones in every way, and so much fucking faster, it's sickening. But Ford being the pricks they are are milking this bullshit, and dealers are marking up what few GT's they get, $3-4k unless you order one, which I was forced to do. But I am paying $2k under sticker for it. Of course I have to get the dumb thing first.


Brett,

You know I'm just flipping you shit cos we've been through this before. Basically I could give a shit about domestic cars. I'm a truck and SUV guy and my family has always been "Pro Chev." lol.

In fact, I believe it was yourself who turned me onto the term "Fucked Over Road Disaster" a few years ago.

I just love big Chev Vortec engines like my Suburban. I wish I could own a "car" again but in my climate, it's a pain in the ass. We NEED 4x4's. I'll have to admit that I like the retro look on the new Stangs. Unlike those pathetic GTO/Grand Am/Prix's. lol.

Dan
03-09-2005, 09:59 PM
Originally posted by smaz
GTO....

My dad has a Mitsobishi GTO, twin turbo thing. Lovely :) Fast as hell, and sounds good...

Smaz that's a Boy Racers Car here on The North Shore.What's the story with The U.F.O lights under the car?

bueno bob
03-10-2005, 02:10 AM
Good news: It is a sensor malfunction.

Bad news: It'll cost about $1500.00 to fix it.

Smile! I'm not you! :D

MAX
03-10-2005, 02:30 AM
Originally posted by bueno bob
Good news: It is a sensor malfunction.

Bad news: It'll cost about $1500.00 to fix it.

Smile! I'm not you! :D

Just an 02 sensor aye?

That's what I thought. Do you have any buddies who have a shop cos there are ways to just shut off the "Check Engine" light? It's cheating but it saves you some dollas. My little brother knows how to do it. lol.

Cathedral
03-10-2005, 02:37 AM
A sensor malfunction?

What sensor is it?
Get me a part number and i'll see what the nephew has to say about that, he's Mr. Goodwrench, lol.

Oh, and is that a dealer estimate?
And an even better question, who's paying for this repair?

MAX
03-10-2005, 02:40 AM
Originally posted by Cathedral
A sensor malfunction?

What sensor is it?
Get me a part number and i'll see what the nephew has to say about that, he's Mr. Goodwrench, lol.

Oh, and is that a dealer estimate?
And an even better question, who's paying for this repair?

Cat to the rescue. lol.

My little brother has a little yellow box that he just plugs in under the dash around the fuses and just shuts that shit right off.

bueno bob
03-10-2005, 02:50 AM
Yeah, it's an estimate from the Kia dealership...I've got a guy up in Camas who knows his way around pretty well; the problem that I'm faced with here is that I bought the car in Vancouver WA, and the plates are WA issue and the tags are (of course) expired, and unless I can get that Check Engine light off, I won't pass DEQ Emissions testing in order to get it registered here in Oregon - I've got a trip permit for it, but it'll expire in 19 days or so and I can only get 2 a year, so I'll need to figure something out fairly quick-like...

According to my little statement from Kia here (which of course ran me $70.00 to get), the O2 part # is MBP3C-18861 (runs $353.15 + $40 labor) and there's some other brain chip that I need, apparently, that's costing the lion's share - part #MZT0T-18881B (prices at $1243.15 + $80 labor) for a grand total of $1596.30...all to turn the pretty little lights off...

On the plus side, the car RUNS like it's brand new (got 70K on the OD), but I gotta deal with all this DMV/DEQ bullshit in order to drive it LEGALLY; I wonder if there's not some wire I can just pull to turn the dummy lights off, because if the check engine lights off, DEQ will actually test the damn thing and pass it - for whatever dumbfuck reason, they won't even run the test if the check engine lights showing for anything, so...who knows...

Well, anyway, there it is.

bueno bob
03-10-2005, 02:52 AM
Originally posted by Cathedral
And an even better question, who's paying for this repair?

I am - the car is a 97, so it's not entirely new, but I bought it from the original owner (who just happens to be my sister in law). The milage puts it still in warranty, but beings as it's 8 years out of the gate, it's expired so...go figure...

Cathedral
03-10-2005, 03:08 AM
Originally posted by bueno bob
Yeah, it's an estimate from the Kia dealership...I've got a guy up in Camas who knows his way around pretty well; the problem that I'm faced with here is that I bought the car in Vancouver WA, and the plates are WA issue and the tags are (of course) expired, and unless I can get that Check Engine light off, I won't pass DEQ Emissions testing in order to get it registered here in Oregon - I've got a trip permit for it, but it'll expire in 19 days or so and I can only get 2 a year, so I'll need to figure something out fairly quick-like...

According to my little statement from Kia here (which of course ran me $70.00 to get), the O2 part # is MBP3C-18861 (runs $353.15 + $40 labor) and there's some other brain chip that I need, apparently, that's costing the lion's share - part #MZT0T-18881B (prices at $1243.15 + $80 labor) for a grand total of $1596.30...all to turn the pretty little lights off...

On the plus side, the car RUNS like it's brand new (got 70K on the OD), but I gotta deal with all this DMV/DEQ bullshit in order to drive it LEGALLY; I wonder if there's not some wire I can just pull to turn the dummy lights off, because if the check engine lights off, DEQ will actually test the damn thing and pass it - for whatever dumbfuck reason, they won't even run the test if the check engine lights showing for anything, so...who knows...

Well, anyway, there it is.

Does the E-Check place have a policy that if the repair is over $500.00 you get an exemption from the testing?
Here in Ohio they have it set up that it will get a free pass if over that amount to fix, but it has to be fixed by the following year to get re-tagged.

Also, this is the last year for E-Checks in Ohio, Is that happening there as well?
The next move is a tax added to gasoline to make the counties money, and it will cost the consumer more than $20 every two years.

I'll give those part numbers to my nephew tomorrow and see if he can get any of those parts cheaper for you. any savings will help i'm sure, but if the car runs fine and you can get them turned off, go for it.

That, my friend, is why i never buy or sell cars to family and friends.
if it were me i'd be knocking down a door and demanding my money back...They can sell it to a Mexican.

Igosplut
03-10-2005, 07:35 AM
Originally posted by bueno bob
Good news: It is a sensor malfunction.

Bad news: It'll cost about $1500.00 to fix it.

Smile! I'm not you! :D

Hate to rain on your parade, but Kia's have the WORST track record when it comes to repairs (do a net search). I know of two people that turned them back to the dealers under the lemon law (MA.)

Check with the dealer about arbitration with the factory (usually a number that you can call). What they're not telling you is that car manufacturers are responsible for EMISSION related problems for TEN yrs. If you have a major emission problem thats not your fault (exccesive wear and tear, accidents, ect) then the car company (not dealer) is lible for the repair. I would imagine also because of all the recalls KIA has had that it shouldn't be much of a problem to get your car fixed. remember the DEALER is NOT going to be much help, because they make more money selling YOU the parts instead of the factory paying them (at a reduced labor rate, and no part markup). The federal goverment makes them cover the emission problems, so if you push the issue I think they'll take care of, if not all, probably the parts. Be persistent.

The gas cap thing is the fact that all later model cars have the fuel tanks pressurized with 1-1/2 PSI. They consider gas fumes emissions (thats why they have fuel-vapor recovery at gas stations) and feed them into the induction to burn it off. If the CPU doesn't read that pressure in the system (gas cap ajar, ect) it sets a code (check engine light)......

You should alway have a car (no matter HOW good of shape) checked out by your own shop before you buy it . Doesn't matter if it's coming from a dealer or not. You wouldn't BELIEVE the amount of customers we have that fuck themselves that buy cars THEN bring them in (more of them come from wholesale used car lot than anywhere else, but the new car dealers can be just as bad)....

twonabomber
03-10-2005, 09:37 PM
Originally posted by Cathedral

Also, this is the last year for E-Checks in Ohio

actually this is the last year of the contract between the state and Envirotest. federal and Ohio EPA say we still need to comply with the regs so testing will probably still be done.

if i move a county east i wouldn't have to deal with E-check any more...

Nickdfresh
03-10-2005, 09:51 PM
Originally posted by bueno bob
Good news: It is a sensor malfunction.

Bad news: It'll cost about $1500.00 to fix it.

Smile! I'm not you! :D

Fuck the sensor, or at least get a second opinion!

PS- Ooops! Forgot about the emissions/inspection thing.

rustoffa
03-10-2005, 10:02 PM
Originally posted by Brett

GTO's are hideous, look like Grand Ams. You could put 500 HP in that, am I'm not spending $34k on a freaking Grand Am with a big engine. Yeah they're fast, but man that styling is naaaaaasty.

It'll look even worse from way behind while your dashboard is rattling.

Nickdfresh
03-10-2005, 10:03 PM
And may I add something not thread specific? Never, ever buy one of these shit boxes:
http://graphics.jsonline.com/graphics/wheels/img/aug04/nissantitan.jpg
The Nissan Titan pickup is beset with problems. My brother is suing under his state's Lemon Law! Seriously. I have a Nissan Sentra SER Spec V, and I love it. But stay away from the pickup and the minivan (Quest?), in which nearly one out of two models sold has a serious defect.

twonabomber
03-10-2005, 10:09 PM
no surprise, first model year and all. and Nissan is under Renault control-think of all those crappy LeCar's and Fuego's you used to see runnin' around...or not running... :D

i believe Mitsubishi's GTO was 3000GT here in the States.

Nickdfresh
03-10-2005, 10:24 PM
Originally posted by twonabomber
no surprise, first model year and all. and Nissan is under Renault control-think of all those crappy LeCar's and Fuego's you used to see runnin' around...or not running... :D

i believe Mitsubishi's GTO was 3000GT here in the States.

True, but he's been through two transmissions, a rear differential, break problems, and finally the last straw, a power steering pump, after the dealer had it for over two weeks!

You are correct sir; Nissan is controlled by the French, but they've been for some years now and were fine until they expanded too fast and started cranking out shit. Even the Sentra has slipped into Consumer Reports "below-average reliability" (from slightly above average when I bought mine) category; and it's been the same car for about four years now!

That being said, I haven't had any real problems other than a couple of minor recalls, and some excessively rusty brake rotors.