My new project, it's a "Jem" of a guitar

[ELVIS]

And watch those flat corners...

Don't even sand them. Polish will do just fine...

Sand through those corners and you're back to square one...

[jhale667]

Agreed.

Because you have no guitars. Piss off and get out of my build thread. You offer nothing.

Seriously, GAyR...STFU.

The guy's doing a great job, and of course you can't resist the urge to cap on him with your holier-than-thou bullshit. It's getting old.

He's in America, he can paint it however the fuck he wants. Without a lecture from you, you no-picture-posting, plywood Charvette having, google-handicapped jackass.

And whining about the bushings? What a sissy. Plus it's not like you can even get the old-style posts anymore without special ordering them from Floyd Rose, dummy. You just hate on anyone that can build their own guitar.


Carry on, ideedido - by all means. Great work!

Gar sounds jealous

Yeah, well....the sun did come up this morning, didn't it? Same as it ever was.

[GAR]

Plus it's not like you can even get the old-style posts anymore without special ordering them from Floyd Rose...

Carvin store has 'em..

Allparts
Mojotone
WD Products

[GAR]

You probably support a poly paint rather than lacquer because it is more durable.

Name a finish, gun or pressure system and i've probably used it so just assume I have and do not ask.

I like the features of different finishes for different reasons, finish is finish if it sells a guitar.

But then right there, I always built original guitars for sale not knockoffs because I have more skills than an integrator assembling a kit guitar like this.

[Diamondjimi]

But you can use primer, sealers or even paint to seal the wood. Let it dry a week or two and your topcoat will lay smooth as long as you sand the dried coats first...

If someone chooses to prime directly on the wood it has to be an alkyd based primer. two coats should suffice with a minimum 24hrs cure and sanding between coats.
Primer dries and cures considerably faster than finish coats based on its solvent content and curing agents acting as an accelerant.

[letsrock]

FYI

Gar is 250 years old. If he actually did 10% of the rebuilds/repairs/fixed/restores he claims thats a full career.
Not to mention other areas like cars, IT work the list goes on.

And if he isnt 250 years old than i'm sure he is a robot, therefore making him a tool.

[Diamondjimi]

You catch on quick!

You forgot to mention the fact that GARfuckle has (in the past) enjoyed urinating on you boys...

[GAR]

If someone chooses to prime directly on the wood it has to be an alkyd based primer. two coats should suffice with a minimum 24hrs cure and sanding between coats.
Primer dries and cures considerably faster than finish coats based on its solvent content and curing agents acting as an accelerant.

You keep painting your houses, let's leave the guitar finishes to those who actually spray stuff..

alkyd=google goggles

[indeedido]

I'll say this much more about the primer in case another DIYer wants me to lay some knowledge their way. Why do I spray primer and not jump straight to the paint? Well, for a couple of reasons: Primer helps to bond the paint to the body, like I mentioned above. Without it, you may find that your paint is doing strange things as it hits the sealer. The primer tends to make the paint stick nicely, eliminating any “funky” patches in your paint. Primer is also good to use because it allows you to see any flaws that you might’ve missed during the sealing stage. The primer acts like a sealer too, because it fills any leftover grain and/or any little dings or holes that may still be there as well as micro scratches. It can be sanded just like the sealer. Now, I'm moving on. Train back on the tracks.

[indeedido]

Contrary to what the a fore mentioned tool thinks, this is hardly a kit guitar. This is a custom made body and neck. Feel free to call it a clone if you like. I just happened to like the 7VWH, but not the gold.

Here are some "pieces" I've acquired on ebay over the last year. Dimarzio Evolutions in all three positions. I've been able to score the same Ibanez parts as on the production model as well quite inexpensively on the bay. Including a Lo Pro Edge. All hardware is cosmo black, Ibanez's chromed black or grey.

[indeedido]

Here I am after two coats of tung oil. I apply a coat with a rag. I rub it in not just wipe it on. Rub a dub dub. After it dries, the next day I use 0000 steel wool to remove the excess. Apply, repeat. I'm going to do 4 coats. Steel wooling in between coats allows the oil to penetrate the wood and seal it somewhat for protection from moisture. Obviously since it isn't a hard finish, technically it is not totally sealed from moisture, but it will be just fine. The wool takes off the top layer and leaves only wood with what has soaked in. After the last bit of wool hits it, it will feel nice and raw.

[indeedido]

Here is the body, it is completely finished and ready to wire up. I hope to wire the pickguard this weekend and mount. I added shielding paint in all the cavities both front and back.

[GAR]

I'll say this much more about the primer in case another DIYer wants me to lay some knowledge their way. Why do I spray primer and not jump straight to the paint? Well, for a couple of reasons: Primer helps to bond the paint to the body, like I mentioned above. Without it, you may find that your paint is doing strange things as it hits the sealer. The primer tends to make the paint stick nicely, eliminating any “funky” patches in your paint. Primer is also good to use because it allows you to see any flaws that you might’ve missed during the sealing stage. The primer acts like a sealer too, because it fills any leftover grain and/or any little dings or holes that may still be there as well as micro scratches. It can be sanded just like the sealer. Now, I'm moving on. Train back on the tracks.

Now I understand what's going on here: you know absolutely nothing about what aids or inhibits adhesion.

It's not primer, it's not sealer coatings: it is simply a clean, etched surface..

You can etch a surface with a wipe-on prep from a can, you can do it with ANY read me clearly ANY grit sandpaper AT ALL.

But you cannot aid adhesion of a new surface, by coating an older surface with a primer, or a sealer beneath that one.

I'll help you along though, with that gap in your understanding.. what you see in the way of these "patches" or "funky" anything going on, is INHIBITION of adhesion.

It happens when you get your dirty, filthy brisket fingers all over everything. And the way you get around that, is by washing your hands, keeping anything oily away from ALL PAINT materials (sandpapers, tapes, cloths, wiping rags, stir sticks, cardboard bench coverings etc) and after final sand, take your cleanest rag and inspecting with a closeup light souce (I used a simple drop light w/a 30 watt bulb) degrease the surface from any fingerprints and dust off with shots of air.

It can also happen from line contamination of your airlines, especially if you use one of those shitty pancake oilless compressors, or do not use an oil and moisture trap filter in your line before the gun.

Bottom line: if you don't know why you're using something, look it up, ask others who know, and try what they advise - but do NOT come in here professing some method you find true as you use it, to be the truth when it is not.

You use primer, and you like thick finishes. Great. They do not aid adhesion of coatings nor obscure surface contamination problems.. degreasers and traps do that!

[GAR]

I use copper foil for shielding, or at least aluminum foil - that conductive paint has lead in it and is toxic to the blood and liver, it's quite evil stuff.

[GAR]

Here I am after two coats of tung oil. I apply a coat with a rag. I rub it in not just wipe it on. Rub a dub dub. After it dries, the next day I use 0000 steel wool to remove the excess.

I would encourage you to try 320 grit to smooth the globs from the second coat of tung oil - two is overkill btw - and then add trewax or a suitable pure carnuba can wax, the buff the hell off it by hand or by machine if you are comfortable with disk speed.