Look at the crater in that scarf joint!!!!!!!
Look at the gap under the frets? Think he cut them a little deep?
Look at the crater in that scarf joint!!!!!!!
Look at the gap under the frets? Think he cut them a little deep?
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That's not the point, the point was, clear lacquers or enamels or ANYTHING see-thru of a finish is of a finer particle and fills grain better than solid, opaque finish.
Sure you can paint directly onto the body, but you waste material, get more buildup faster without filling the grain and therefore wind up sanding most of it off till the grain settles, and because the grain isn't filled in underneath it will keep shrinking for 2 months or more.
So in the long run, even using a fuckin' can of Krylon clear lacquer just dusting it on, till you get about 4 coats before sanding would be $6 well spent just in time savings alone before spraying a color coat.
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Fender uses a 695 in production, it's good for lacquer, latex, literally anything. No shit! And they're so easy to clean the pump, you can do it yourself.. the ball, the packing seals, the whole damn thing is butt simple. I've done it!
I'm getting that 695.. I always felt like I could use just a wee tad more pressure, and I noticed the little difference in gal per minute flow meant alot at the gun between the 390 and the 495 that that was going to be the next step for me anyways.
Oh fucking hell man!
Did you order that thing from the guy Sarge used? (edit: okay I read it, "jemsite" guy..)
I think you need to return that neck, dude. If you can't, you'll have to take the frets out and that fingerboard so far down it's almost a waste.
If I was you, I'd just flip it. You're FUCKED. If this was a custom order for a guy off your website, he's not gonna be happy with it.
Of course, you could just leave the fingerboard alone, fill the fret slots with epoxy dabs mixed with rosewood dust sanded off the fingerboard side, then paint the neck up to a line matching the other side.. that would work for an ebay auction but for a custom order no way.
If you can't get the guy to take the neck back, order another one 50% off on condition he doesn't send you a second.
This one's a SECOND. The floyd nut ledge explains it all! It's tilted to the same degree as the fingerboard radius, which says there must've been some junk between the pinrouter template and the bit.
That or the guy's stupid!
Last edited by GAR; 06-22-2009 at 07:21 PM.
This isn't my current neck, it is the first one I bought that caused the delay. I emailed the guy and he said he didn't know what could have went wrong. That was the last communication I got. I emailed him dozens of times and left him dozens of voice messages. I finally got my credit card company involved as I paid him via paypal. Took four months but I got my money back. That thing was horrible. That nut shelf tells the story alone. How could anyone not see that, and go ahead and ship it. There is no way that thing would have played correctly. One side of the fingerboard was thicker than the other. Come on!!
I can't believe the dude even sent the thing to you with a straight face...holy crap!
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He knew what he was doing: I checked his website and this is typical of people who wanna play the CNC game and trade cad files in forums.. but are too STOUID to create a firm lockdown jig such as using toggle clamps so the piece doesn't move around during milling.
That's what happened here. But the frets tell the real story why that thing wouldn't play, that sight shot shows you'll be real busy with the file trying to work some kind of level into 'em.
That guy knew exactly what he was doing, because he wasted 30 bucks in materials and knew the deal was shot when he pulled the unfretted blank out of the jig.
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Last edited by jhale667; 06-23-2009 at 09:12 PM. Reason: DJ's was funnier, but let's keep it SFW...
Alright kids...play nice.
What a lovely paint job diamondidiot!
Last edited by jhale667; 06-24-2009 at 10:44 PM. Reason: The pic was lame the first time...
Last edited by jhale667; 06-25-2009 at 12:01 AM. Reason: C'mon, bro...keep it relatively clean!
Who's the woman in the pic?
Cutoff shot of a dog humping a gal. Mods will delete if they see the whole shot.
It's already been adjusted.
I know,I know ...You wanna see the dog's meatbag.
Simmer down GARfuckle there's an unedited version floating around you can wank to...
I'm the only female that gives diamondthingy any attention since his mum died.
Cute
X
Back to the topic, I have completed the tung oil. The 0000 steel wool makes a very minor mess, not even worth talking about really. Does a great job taking the tun oil down without removing wood. I'm sure sandpaper works fine, but for me steel wool is where it is at. Anywho, I got jiggy wit it Sunday morning and wet sanded the headstock. 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 grit. I'm sure you can stop at 1200 or 1500, but going all the way to 2000 is reaching perfection. Zero scratches, smooth as silk. I don't buff with a machine, I do it by hand. So going to 2000 is the way to go if you are buffing by hand. I use 3M Perfect It II Rubbing Compound. If you go to 2000 grit, that is all you need. Here it is flat after the 2000 grit.
Here it is after buffing. It was so shiny and had so much glare from the sun it was hard to photograph, so this pic doesn't do it justice. The white washed it out, I'll try and take a better pic to represent the shine
Last edited by indeedido; 06-28-2009 at 12:48 PM.
jhale667 (06-28-2009)
Check out the fun wiring diagram for the electronics. I'm using the over complicated Jem 5 way switch.
jhale667 (06-28-2009)
Is that one of the ones marketed as a "mega" or super-switch?
Megaswitch E-Model at Stewart-MacDonald
Going by the top right diagram above, and comparing it to the one in your picture, looks like it accomplishes the same thing...
I dunno bout you Indeedido - here you go again with another forged decal.
I make a better decal than Fender. At least I can hide mine so it looks silk screened. Fender's show the edge all the way around the decal. If you're going to do something, do it right! I go all the way when I make a guitar replica. I would never pass it off as anything other than what it is. Plus all Ibanez lovers would know right off the bat it was a fake. Just like Elvis spotting the fake Fenders. I just like the challenge of making a logo. It's not quite as easy as it seems. I also don't care for how Ibanez puts their logos on. They use vinyl logos that are a few mm thick. I think that is the easy way out but looks cheap. I like the silk screened look.
The switch I'm using is an Ibanez switch called the VLX-91. It is like a megaswitch in that it gives you infinite coil tapping options. I got all Ibanez parts off of ebay so it may as well be an Ibanez so I'm not ashamed of the logo. Just didn't have to pay $2500 for it!
Last edited by indeedido; 06-28-2009 at 03:41 PM.
Fender would do two shots of clear, sanded with dry 320, then the logo and one more shot of lacquer.
So what if the edges show, in the preCBS ones there was no clear overcoat of the decal at ALL!
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jhale667 (06-29-2009)
He can put a personal serial number on it under the clear for theft and identification...
I put all kinds of stuff under the neck, and in the neck pocket. Anything can be scratched off, but most people don't take the necks off. At least not for quite some time. So it's as good a place as any to put an id
How about something visible to an idiot cop in a stolen merchandise raid? Cops are pretty fucken street-stupid, if you dont make that serial plain as day, they're not gonna disassemble the guitar for ID'ing.. and anotehr thing, lets say you spot the thing in a local band and call 911.
Idiot cop shows up and asks the guitar player in the club to take the neck off to ID the thing which he could rightfully deny and leave you screwed. Then he goes home tipped off to the hidden ID and scrapes or paints over it.
NIce thinking Sherlock: that's like that Max Guitars guy who puts little magnets and BB's under the headstock overlay - he goes to a guitar show and tells the vintage seller asking $60,000 for his tobacco '58 'paul' "Oh yeah I remember doing this one, look there's a magnet under here.. yup, did that one in 1993 I think.." to watch the guys' jaw drop as his whole world collapses in his little brain...
If you're gonna fake stuff, fake something you're gonna get back at the rate of 50 or 60 bucks an hour. Not a piece of shit Ibanez that has 1987 written all over it - plus if you're gonna do this - why promote Ibanez?
Promote yourself, make a logo decal of your own and have something noone could have being, your own brand.
FYI, GAyR...you can also have radio IDs implanted in the bodies, similar to the ones they implant in pets.
And why do you care (or think anyone even remotely gives a shit what YOU think) about what someone else builds in the first place?
indeedido (06-30-2009)
If I see someone playing MY guitar out, he'll be the one calling the cops because I can and would serve a beat down like it's nobody's business. I repo my own stuff.
I wouldn't exactly call it a fake. I'm not trying to fool anyone. Anyone with common sense can tell this is not an actual Ibanez. I didn't go to those lengths. I could have. I could have made a serial number for the back of the headstock. I could have used reflective gold vinyl for the logo. Blah blah blah. I'm building a guitar that I want. Not for you, not for sale. Like I said I like the 7VWH but not the gold. There is nothing special about the wood Ibanez, Gibson, or anyone else uses. Other than not "Ibanez wood" it has all the same parts. If I want to put a logo on my guitar, my prerogative. I don't have to explain myself to you or anyone else. Don't be jealous, I'll make you a guitar too.
jhale667 (06-30-2009)
Yeah, go ahead and get started on GAyR's plywood Charvette replica...
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