My new project, it's a "Jem" of a guitar

[ELVIS]

If someone chooses to prime directly on the wood it has to be an alkyd based primer. two coats should suffice with a minimum 24hrs cure and sanding between coats.
Primer dries and cures considerably faster than finish coats based on its solvent content and curing agents acting as an accelerant.

Of course, thats more proper...

But you can seal wood with paint. I've done it and it's lasted over 18 years beautifully...

[Igosplut]

Bottom line: if you don't know why you're using something, look it up, ask others who know, and try what they advise - but do NOT come in here professing some method you find true as you use it, to be the truth when it is not.

Everybody in the whole thread (except Elvis) has told you they don't care about your opinion. And your the only one that doesn't agree. Why don't you fuck off and jam your so-called advice down someone else's throat that asked you for it.

You use primer, and you like thick finishes. Great. They do not aid adhesion of coatings nor obscure surface contamination problems.. degreasers and traps do that!

Primers are FOR adhesion...and you no NOTHING about the truth coward.

[ELVIS]

Am I not correct Igo that you can use paint directly on wood ??

You might soak up some paint depending on the density of the wood...

But even ash which is porous, I have sanded and basically sealed it with several very thin coats of laquer (thin so it dries fast and doesn't soak a mile deep altering the good qualities of selecting ash in the first place) because it almost dries in the air while spraying it...

But Gar never did me anything (that I know of) so i still like him...

[indeedido]

Ha, Gar you crack me up you glib son of a bitch. You are a bigger train wreck than Tom Cruise schpieling propaganda at Matt Lauer. When will you learn this thread isn't about you rather the build that I'm doing. I'm not asking for your input simply sharing what I'm doing. I'm not certain what happened to you, you used to seem ok but the last several months you've been a real piece of shit. Much like Mr. T, I pity you....the fool.

[Igosplut]

Am I not correct Igo that you can use paint directly on wood ??

You might soak up some paint depending on the density of the wood...

But even ash which is porous, I have sanded and basically sealed it with several very thin coats of laquer (thin so it dries fast and doesn't soak a mile deep altering the good qualities of selecting ash in the first place) because it almost dries in the air while spraying it...

But Gar never did me anything (that I know of) so i still like him...

I never questioned that. But his statement that "primers do not aid adhesion" is total bullshit. Gar can never PROVE anything (other than being wrong) that he does, he just expounds on knowing (he thinks) more than anybody else.

Painting wood isn't rocket science, and in spite of Gar thinking he's the only one who knows Indeedido looks to be doing a great job.

[ELVIS]

get it right!

I PITY THE FOOL!

[ELVIS]

I never questioned that. But his statement that "primers do not aid adhesion" is total bullshit.

Except in the case of any chrysler vehicle from the 90's...

I had to remove it all by hand on a neon prior to having a friend repaint it...

He said I could paint it, as I had worked for him in the past, but I asked him to do it as he has more experience with car spraying, and paint aint cheep!

I did spray the new primer though...

[Igosplut]

Except in the case of any chrysler vehicle from the 90's...

Don't forget Fords for that list!

I don't do any of my own painting anymore, Have a friend that that's all he does. He has access to a modular spray-and-bake booth, and only uses Spies-Hecker (german) paints. Fabulous stuff, but very pricey....

PM me your Email and I'll shoot you some pics of what I've got going right now, You'd like it...

[GAR]

Ha, Gar you crack me up you glib son of a bitch. You are a bigger train wreck than Tom Cruise schpieling propaganda at Matt Lauer. When will you learn this thread isn't about you rather the build that I'm doing. I'm not asking for your input simply sharing what I'm doing. I'm not certain what happened to you, you used to seem ok but the last several months you've been a real piece of shit. Much like Mr. T, I pity you....the fool.

First of all, this whole site is nothing if it's not a discussion board so by definition should you disinvite my discussion, you invalidate your own thread.

Secondly, as part OF the discussion board and a member specifically having experience in retail repairs and on the OEM side of factory finishes, I'm calling you out on propogating a myth. If you don't like it? Too bad! If you disagree, prove you're correct/

Thirdly, my offerings are given for your refinement, and if you notice the criticism getting harsh there was a reason: such as name-calling or propagation of mistruths.

Lastly, primer is not made for adhesion: it is a scratch filler and a universally mute color backing for almost all colors, to blank out both bare metal sheen and the harsh pinks of bondo body filler prior to the final color coat.

[GAR]

I never questioned that. But his statement that "primers do not aid adhesion" is total bullshit... Indeedido looks to be doing a great job.

NO question, he's doing some good finishes. They're very smooth and he's not wrecking the corners and edges with his color wetsanding. But they're also unnecessily thick. Like your cranium.

The current contention is his unnecessary use of primer, as I've stated before with the wood grain filled, go straight to color.

I also disagree with his use of #0000 steel wool, because one of the things in using it fine as it is, it creates dirt that contaminates the bench and everything in the room, and it can make the neck filthy.

The only thing I use that for is frets, or taking rust off vintage parts with a little dab of WD40 and #0000 without scratching the chrome. I'd never ever use that for oil finished maple surfaces!

[ELVIS]

PM me your Email and I'll shoot you some pics of what I've got going right now, You'd like it...

I wish I could say the same...

I have a Neon ACR that my neighbor backed into not long after the paint job, so I kinda got discouraged. But it has a roll cage and aftermarket suspension and a few other things...

I alsi have a 78 650 Special and a parts bike i'm trying to turn into an early Triumph looking bike with open pipes and no front fender...

[jhale667]

NO question, he's doing some good finishes.

Then quit being a douche about it.

[GAR]

I don't know why anyone would want to defend an inferior finish when good could be "best" so I watch with interest his next project used without primer.

Ash is the worst to seal up, even still I would use a sanding sealer, then a clear, then built up layers to color. Sealing ash grains take a lot of sanding so I can see laziness playing a part in wanting to fill it up with grey autobody primer.. but like I said before at age 16 I found out that's not the most stable way to go.

Yes Elvis, you can paint directly over wood. The reason its not done, is the pigment is much much finer in a clear coat of anything (lacquer, enamel, acrylic, ALL) and cheaper, usually about half depending on choice.

[ELVIS]

I know that...

i wouldn't do it now. That was 18 years ago...

[jhale667]

Clear sanding sealer works great. It's like 10 bucks a can from StewMac.

ColorTone Aerosol Guitar Lacquer at Stewart-MacDonald