I trust him well enough...Originally Posted by jhale667
More pictures to take to your paint guy...
But I'd take those home with me.
I trust him well enough...More pictures to take to your paint guy...
But I'd take those home with me.
Why settle for something you have, if it's not as good as something you're out to get?
It's like putting up a YouTube of Bach and playing Chopstix on your Bontempi...
I swear, the more I look at that - except for that fucking fretboard mangle - LURVES it. Looks like they're going for recreating the Python one, much like you said you want to. Pretty kick-ass.
(Oh, and I got turned on to a semi-local [for me, anyway] dude who makes Charvel replica bodies in Alder, Ash, and a couple of other wood selections for less than $150...gonna check 'em out...)
Which reminds me, I gotta call the guy...
Haven't heard word one from him for almost three weeks...
These things as one-off pieces take alot of time.. my best suggestion is:
1. Leave the guy alone, ample time is not enough - he's an artist you should be thankful to have been given the blessing of on your axe.
2. Offer to buy the guy lunch when you visit. Every time, or bring a beer. This always speeds things along.. cuz he'll think you're not a dick like everybody else who wants their shit yesterday but didn't pay for it.
3. Thank that guy a million times, and be thankful. Oh yeah, and when you talk to him on the phone? Say "thanks oh thanks" till it sounds silly. Make the guy laugh to think you're that happy to be getting something from him.
4. Follow up often.. my experience with these type artists is they like money in increments. Lacquer takes many applications: he'll spray a one clear coat a day for a week, then let it sit for a week while it's drying.
5. Once the art is done, like I say leave him alone about it but pay social visits "just to hang" for a sec. Artists like lots and lots of attention and they'll give it back into your piece when they think of you depending how you treat him.
WAIT a minute....
Who are you, and what have you done with GAR?
Just got an email from Adam (FloydUpgrades.com).
The replacement 37mm brass block's on its way.
Y'know, I started thinking... How deep is the trem recess supposed to be anyway?
2mm - 3mm
No, let ME google that for you...
Trolls take heed...LOG OUT & FUCK OFF!!!
Well, I gave the painter-dude a call.
Hasn't even touched it yet... He's still got one hot rod to finish.
He'll get to it...I'd agree with the "don't rush him" school of thought; he'll do a better job.
Absolutely. Pressuring people just leads to resentment, and that attitude definitely translates to the quality of the work, consciously or not.He'll get to it...I'd agree with the "don't rush him" school of thought; he'll do a better job.
“The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge.”― Stephen Hawking
A guy can't check up on his progress?
Like I was saying...A guy can't check up on his progress?
"Ahhh, Peter...how's it going? About those TPS reports...did you get the memo?"
Last edited by chefcraig; 01-25-2010 at 11:49 AM.
Sure, just don't nag him, or you'll potentially end up with faux-snakeshit as opposed to snakeskin...A guy can't check up on his progress?
Nagging ain't my style...
OK now he's saying he's got another rod to finish up, that could be weeks before he gets to it.
I was under the impression this guy was ready-go on it..
Did you provide just the body, or give it to him in a hard or softcase?
Just the body.
Drop by this weekend with one of your most-beat gigbags for it, or a hardshell case if you can.
Having worked in bodyshops I can tell you the air always has abrasive dust going round and I wouldn't want that settling on it in any stage of the application myself.
If he's a total pro, he probably has some sort of "clean room" dust-free drying/curing area (and some serious ventilation), but still not a bad idea just in case...
I got curious and was poking around looking for snakeskin sources (apparently Kenny at Performance will do outside bodies and necks, not just their own) - but I gotta say looking at a few of them, in some cases the paint-jobs (particularly the new WD sig's) actually look cooler than the real thing...
OK, like for example: Warren's original Python one, as well as this one - AWESOME. No ifs ands or buts.
(Coincidentally, ^the example above^ is a Dinky body from the manufacturer I just stumbled onto via the JCF, and a new Charvel Production-model neck.)
But not really feelin' THIS one:
Looks more like Alligator than Python kinda...I think the newer S/H Python one Warren himself has been playing lately even pales in comparison to the other one, or even the Anaconda one...
THIS one looks cooler than the last example, but still not touching the first one in this post....!
Found a distributor, but based on the variety out there, almost would want to hand-select the piece, or at least choose one out of a set of "in-stock" photos, to see what I was getting instead of ordering and hoping...
Last edited by jhale667; 01-27-2010 at 07:52 PM.
You'd have to find a hide more than 13 inches wide to do it.
It could be applied with white school glue, or rubber contact cement it doesnt matter. Real skin means it's waterproof.
Snake is really light. I really liked it, as stupid an idea it may seem if you never felt it.
Unlike the coldness of the feel of paint, the skin was warm and didnt affect the tone. It's not better or worse than paint, it's just different.
But a likeable different. And a very cool feeling of different, too.
Allow me to clarify a bit...
The guy who's ultimately gonna paint it, his day-time job is not hot rods.
But he's done enough paintwork to realize the necessity of ventilation/"clean rooms"...
Even if he doesn't do it at a full-blown "bodyshop". (Not many hobby-rodders have that luxury around Funland...)
And yes, I realize the last bit sounds like this is gonna take forever...
Hey, better late than never, especially if you're pleased with the results...
What am I? A fortune teller?Hey, better late than never, especially if you're pleased with the results...
(Don't answer that...
And I won't call you Shirley, either.
OK, I won't.
This thread has kinda motivated me to get off my ass and finish a couple of my guitar projects that have been on the back-burner, especially the recreation of my (2nd of the era) 20-something Charvel-mutt...
For your next one, you may want to consider KnE bodies...(started listening to the overwhelming consensus opinion amongst my friends - real and on teh internets
Neck-pocket fit is tighter than a virgin's...uh..direct-mounting the pickups, Ti-block, Graph Tech saddles and Stainless Steel hardware already installed, once everything's all perfect off it goes to (well, now one of) my paint guy(s)...
Never tried a real snakeskin guitar, but have had enough snake and eel skin wallets to know I'd like the feel...just doesn't seem like it'd be all that durable over time...
Last edited by jhale667; 01-30-2010 at 03:53 AM.
Go to Performance and feel one Saturday. The snake is really thin, lightweight and it feels great.
You will be convinced to have 'em do it to that one. Probably the same price as paint, and more reversible if you want a change years later - just peel it off, tell 'em use white Elmers.
They didn't have any last time I was in there (not very far from here), unfortunately, but might be worth calling later to see if they have one in stock.
Won't be doing it with this one, as I'm set on recreating/correcting a design I didn't get right w/that neck years earlier (IS corrected now, just need the paint "re-imagined" correctly) for mostly sentimental reasons; But at the price-point KnE bodies go for, I can conceivably get bodies for both a snake and the Fair Warning one in the very near future, and get them both going as the post Voyager-Charvel (and now the offshoot natural Ash Musikraft) projects.
Checking out the KnE site as I type...
"The Warren" sounds interesting...
I'm gonna keep using his stuff.
Checking out the KnE site as I type...
"The Warren" sounds interesting...
Yeah, might do snakeskin on a Dinky "Warren" body someday...the KnE guy's turnaround is 3-5 days, his communication is excellent...body I got was created the day before (he's local, so UPS got it here in a day), and is ridiculously close to the Musikraft - only his neck pocket and routs are tighter overall it seems...
Hey now!
Uh-oh!
Wait- bodies only - no matching headstocks?
That's like Dean Zelinsky's DBZ guitars, with his laser-burned "croc" finishes which I don't necessarily care for but can appreciate aesthetically.
The real skin's the way to go, but even if this guy did real snake hide applique's I wouldn't pay $600 fuckin dollars.
I mean, how long does it take to paste a skin down and trim the edges with an Xacto blade? 40 minutes?
I can see the hard part would be cutting the perimeter's top and bottom band edges straight.. like you might want to use a steel ruler or carpenters' square as a straight-edge. But once you got the side pasted, it's got to be an easy shot trimming the top.
Or vicey-versy: top, bottom, then band the side 'round it.
Ok maybe 2 hours with a bottle of Elmers. Nobody should have to pay $600 for the real thing, which has a nice exotic feel to it.
Graining the actual wood for 6 hun I don't thinks so!
They have cutoffs as samples.. duhh!
Ask to see samples. Of course they ain't gonna have any - they sell out everyone they make.
Even the ones they took to the show found homes the first day!
I was poking around the 'net, looking for some alternative shielding methods...
And I bumbed into this site:
Control Plates - ID Info - USA Charvels
Of particular interest was the "Triangular shaped cavity w/metal cover early 1982 - current" bit.
Looks easy enough... I might try that.
Regular block arrived in the mail on Tuesday.
and I gave up on the brass cavity shielding plate idea...
Not enough info to pursue that with confidence. Copper tape, instead.
I use 3" self-adhesive aluminum tape. Cut in strips, trim to curves with scissors, then fold the edges over the top ledge and do the backplate completely.
I overlap the edges by 1/8" and pierce the overlappings thru with the pointy edge of the multi-meter probe point. Then I check for continuity between strips to ensure full cavity contact.
Fender does this (or used to) with graphite paint, which is really fucking toxic. I don't get it. They do this before paint - a guy sits with a 5-gallon bucket of this stuff, and with a throwaway chip brush paints it into the pickup channels and cavity.
I don't know when they started this, I think it began in the mid 80s.
If you use copper tape, you must still pierce between overlapping layers so one bites thru the adhesive glue and into the next layer, otherwise it could possibly insulate from contact and you wont' get any noise-reduction benefit from your effort. But it sure looks pretty!
Ok, I'm slightly annoyed now...
But not enough, given how much LESS mine cost...
Gotta love a bargain, huh?
Not sure how this happened...
And while you're busy doing yours, seems mine has begun to reproduce somehow...
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