Yes it is sad. Sad that people lose valuable time dealing with the flatulence that cums out it it's mouth.
This Garfuckle thing is a failed product. I am going to complain to the manufacturer, and demand a refund!
Yes it is sad. Sad that people lose valuable time dealing with the flatulence that cums out it it's mouth.
This Garfuckle thing is a failed product. I am going to complain to the manufacturer, and demand a refund!
On the 73 I had, same issue. I concluded it was the close proximity of the strings to the body and how the neck angled down towards the bridge not back and away from it.Originally Posted by Nitro Express
That bridge was shit, potmetal integrally-cast block and plate, and cast potmetal saddles. I fricken WISHED they had the Fender 54 reissue bridge for sale, back then.
That's the best stock Fender trem bridge. Does yours have a matchbook cover or picks for a neck shim inside the pocket?
I see you had the urge to up another load of verbal diarrhoea Gary. I didn't know it was possible to get Crohn's Disease of the mouth.
Listen to what I have to say very carefully - No one cares about anything you post here. Everyone here knows (including yourself) that you are a fake and liar.
Roth Army Militia
He's a mad fucker at work with a floor buffer, though.
Wait, isn't that a job for the illegal immigrants who work there? I though his job was to lick the grease trap clean...
OK, I'm back.
Cool project. Depending on how crazy you and your dad want to get there are exact copies of the Frankie neck and body available from Musikraft...
https://www.musikraft.com/product-info.php?pid164.html
https://www.musikraft.com/product-info.php?pid158.html
They also make a Kramer-style body...though I recommend going for one of the CVH designs over that era, natch.
You have been sorely missed.Cool project. Depending on how crazy you and your dad want to get there are exact copies of the Frankie neck and body available from Musikraft...
https://www.musikraft.com/product-info.php?pid164.html
https://www.musikraft.com/product-info.php?pid158.html
They also make a Kramer-style body...though I recommend going for one of the CVH designs over that era, natch.
j/k
Last edited by Jagermeister; 07-07-2010 at 05:01 PM.
$195 for that damn thing!Cool project. Depending on how crazy you and your dad want to get there are exact copies of the Frankie neck and body available from Musikraft...
https://www.musikraft.com/product-info.php?pid164.html
https://www.musikraft.com/product-info.php?pid158.html
They also make a Kramer-style body...though I recommend going for one of the CVH designs over that era, natch.
Damn!
You say that like it's a bad thing?
It just sound like alot to me. I bet Ed didn't have that much total in that guitar. You think?
No, but let's recall this was in what, '76 - so adjust for inflation, but he was also using factory seconds too...
It's funny. That thing really was a piece of junk by all practical standards. But it worked.
He said it was a guitar he wanted to build because nobody had what he wanted in a guitar at the time. He built it with the first parts he found for it; and in this case it was factory seconds from Charvel and Boogie Bodies. All that matters is that it worked
Reading Crazy From the Heat in four hours flat, in a cramped RV, on the return trip of a 3,000+ mile family outing to New Jersey is an enlightening experience you'll never forget.
He was a little more specific than that, though - from what I've read over the years he knew he wanted an ash body, and a wider neck...he went for the seconds to save money...dude was smart and thrifty...lol
Funny, aren't his new Wolfgang's made of Asswood?
(Welcome back, btw!)
Trolls take heed...LOG OUT & FUCK OFF!!!
Uh-huh...I always thought that smart and thrifty translated to cheapskate.
“The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge.”― Stephen Hawking
They are...that trend started with the Peaveys... not a fan of (B)asswood either.Funny, aren't his new Wolfgang's made of Asswood?
(Welcome back, btw!)
(And thanks!)
So edumacate me. Why wouldn't this be just as good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Kramer-Pacer-Cla...item1c13c655e0
It started before then - the EBMM EVH was also Basswood (with a maple top).
You are correct...jet-lag, my bad...lol.
For a Frankenstein copy? For starters, wrong body shape.
If you were going to do a 5150 replica it wouldn't be completely correct due to the neck pickup and control routs...which you could fill, but seems like a pain in the ass...unless it does indeed go for $11 as it stands currently...lol
It would be neat to make a 5150, but, the striping would be too much work. I'm sure the VH1 or VH2 Frankie would be a good guitar to start out building.
VH2 would be the easiest.
5150 a close second, and an accurate Frankie would def. be the most work...
Apparently nobody noticed your absence. That was a good thing.
If you do the Charvel one you spray the body yellow first, tape, then black.
That's probably the easier one because the overall black look will hide all the flaws from mis-pulling of the tape edges and any body woodgrain anomalies.
How would you know? You never built a guitar before....
You do something with the paint besides huff it??
Chainsaw Muthuafucka
Duuuhh...
(VanHalenFan5150)If you go with the VH2 "Bumblebee" If the body is raw, after you apply the sand and seal, sand it smooth and apply the primer. Priming will reveal the visible woodgrains. Skim with auto bondo, (it dries ultra hard and it's easy to sand), re-prime and repeat if necessary.
Proceed with yellow base coat, 2 or 3 should suffice. (I recommend at least 24hrs between coats)
Wet sand with 1600 grit between coats and be sure to tack cloth it well after sanding.
Once you achieve the solid depth of yellow tape it up. Try and collect as many examples (pics) from as many different angles as you can to help with the accuracy of your taping.
One trick you can do that will help in a neat removal of the tape is, when you get to the end of each strip fold back a small piece into itself to act as a pull tab (rather than having to pick at it)
3 light coats of gloss black should do the trick. Once the final coat of black is applied give it a few days to cure. (Very lightly) score the edges of the tape with a new exact-o knife. (take your time) and gently remove the tape.
Time to wetsand with 2200 grit. What helps is to wet the surface of the body area's you're working on as well. Start by very gently wetsanding the edges of the tape lines to bring down their profile a little bit.
(Warning: it doesn't take much to rub through to the next colour. Use caution!!!)
Followed by gently steel wooling the entire body with 0000 grade steel wool. the body should look dull in sheen.
Now you're ready for clearcoating.
I would recommend no less than 5 coats of high gloss,wetsanding and steel wooling in between coats.
Remember one thing here in regards to all coating. Don't try to do alot with each coat of anything. The key to a good finish is multiple thin even layers...
Good luck, should you choose the "Bumblebee".
Last edited by Diamondjimi; 07-09-2010 at 11:22 AM.
Go die in a fire or something.
STFU, Tiny Tubby. People would applaud yours, because it would be a good thing.
Post pics of your gear or GTFO.
Also of note, another manufacturer I've used, KnE, makes Frankie bodies starting at $110!
http://www.kneguitars.com/kit_bod.php#frankhome
Also of note, another manufacturer I've used, KnE, makes Frankie bodies starting at $110!
http://www.kneguitars.com/kit_bod.php#frankhome
If you had a router could you just cut one of these out of a blank piece of wood? I went to some odd ball store in Kansas City one time that had shelves and shelves full of all kinds of differnt wood. I remember thinking damn that would make a kick ass guitar body.
Wait! Isn't that the same, lame shallow tummycut relief Ed Roman had on his bodies?
Where is that company.. they sure don't know how to finish their edges correctly do they.
You can buy body blanks made of alder or ash from Stew Mac...if one has the skills it can be done. Personally, I decided against woodshop in high school after one of my friends nearly cut his thumb off...lol IMO it's worth it to spend a hunski....spend the digits to save the digits, y'know?
Yep yep, I wish we had woodshop at my school. We have stagecraft since we're a performing arts school, so it's similar but the only time we would build when I took the class was whenever there was a show coming up, and there were only 3 during the whole year... Boring...
I once cut off my coch to save Tibet, the hell what you say!
Word of warning on the body front - avoid Frankenstraat.com, James Duffy or anything else to do with that guy like the plague. A few years back he was semi okay, but these days the guy is a bullshitter of almost Gar proportions who just takes peoples money and runs. Those who do eventually see a product (and we're talking months to years later hear) are 99% of the time than less than satisfied with the end result.
Whatever, stumpy...
WOW I usually ignore everything you post, but this Frankenstraat guy looks like he hasn't resolved his dozen pages of people bitching about him.
Is he now ebay seller "guitarpartsonline1" offering 5150 kits?
http://cgi.ebay.com/BYO-5150-Guitar-...item5888921901
I hadn't heard of people still doing this after that Roland Hernandez guy got a CND from EVH.
Well it appears like he's a high rated seller with 99.7% customer satisfaction rating and 12,665 seller reviews. He must be a bad seller then, Gar.
Check my thread out on how I built mine. I bought a body from Warmoth. Then I used a chisel and wood carving set to "chisel" out the route for the humbucker by hand. I could have used a router, but I wanted it to look like Edwards. I also wanted to do it just like he did. So I traced my pattern, drank some beers and carved out the route. If it is too smooth it just doesn't look right.
I did smooth it up a little with sandpaper when done. I've found that one of the overlooked pieces of Ed's early tone is the angle of the pickup. It sounds totally different when it is parallel to the bridge than it does angled. I took a compass and figured out how many degrees it was. I don't recall what it was but believe me each degree does affect the tone.
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