I've been wanting to adjust the action on my Kramer guitar, which has a Floyd Rose. I took the strings off and i'm cleaning it and stuff. But i'm wondering, what can I do to lower the action a bit?
I've been wanting to adjust the action on my Kramer guitar, which has a Floyd Rose. I took the strings off and i'm cleaning it and stuff. But i'm wondering, what can I do to lower the action a bit?
Reading Crazy From the Heat in four hours flat, in a cramped RV, on the return trip of a 3,000+ mile family outing to New Jersey is an enlightening experience you'll never forget.
Lower the 2 pivot post's by tightening to the right....
Trolls take heed...LOG OUT & FUCK OFF!!!
Alright, i'll try that out, thanks.I also have a recessed rout for my bridge, the FR. Should I screw the saddles in the back peg or the front peg? (I.e the one closest to the fine tuners or the ones closest to the pickup)
Dude, those are to adjust your intonation.Originally Posted by VanHalenFan5150
Alright, i'll try that out, thanks.
Thanks, i'm gonna put strings on now. I use D'Addarios mediums, how 'bout you?
Same here.... 10-52's
I like the tone I get out of them. They're the best strings i've ever used. Besides DR's, really. DR's Tens are incredible.
I used 10's for years until about 2 or 3 years ago when I switched back to 9's... I figure why make it harder then I have to on myself? I guess I'm lazy
Remember those Dean Markley 10s that we had to drive all the way to Musician's Exchange on Sunrise to get? I loved those things, and each pack came with a free sticker. For a while there in the late seventies/early eighties, very musician in S. Florida had covered (and in some instances held together) their guitar cases with them.I used 10's for years until about 2 or 3 years ago when I switched back to 9's... I figure why make it harder then I have to on myself? I guess I'm lazy
“The greatest enemy of knowledge is not ignorance, it is the illusion of knowledge.”― Stephen Hawking
Hey, me too!
I could never go back to 9's. They feel like thread to me now after all these years of 10's.I used 10's for years until about 2 or 3 years ago when I switched back to 9's... I figure why make it harder then I have to on myself? I guess I'm lazy
I find 10's ring better than 9's when you strike a chord. Plus the temperament of the gauge suits my hand/finger strength perfectly.
Started to find with 9's I was over bending too often and needed a bit more resistance...
I started on 9's then discovered 8s two years later.
I've worked up to 11's and saw no benefit, then went straight back down to 8's an went "whoa" because all the rubber was back, and all the cast-iron-skillet tone was gone.
I liked a little klank back, so I went back up to 9's. In an 8 I love the GHS Boomers. In the 9's I like Dean Markley cryo's, Fender or EB 9-42's and have been that way the last 26 years.
Play with the spring claw by using a number 2 phillips screwdriver, brand new, that you from now on keep in your case.
Back out the screws so some common object you choose to fit between the body and the claw bracket will fit: such as a dine, two Crayolas, your chicks lipstick cover, or your coch.
Then tighten each screw so they are exactly the same distance, then tune up your strings watching how the trem floats on the body in relation to height of strings off the end of the fingerboard.
Then bring the action down by counting quarter-turns off each trem claw till it floats right - THEN use the height-adjust screws to compensate.
You can also use a fresh Bastard Cut file to remove wood beneath the nut: remove both nutblock screws - detune - remove nutblock - file fiver or ten strokes flatly and evenly - replace block - retune - check action and repeat until the first fret barely buzzes. If you have spark plug feeler gauge strips, you can do this safely by checking the height above first fret on each low and high e strings by using .022" or .023" thousandths strips for clearance. Then you know that's about as far as you go without topping the frets.
Lastly but firstly before you top the frets, adjust the truss rod by using the 4 or 5mm allen and inserted, rotate it clockwise in quarter turns while sighting down the neck like a gunbarrel. You are watching for the hump in the neck's curvature to backbow out and this will give you some beginnings of buzzing situation mid-neck. So you keep going untill you hear that buzz, plucking with one hand while pulling the Allen in the other in quarter turns. Once you hear the buzz, back the wrench off a half-quarter turn then stop. Play holding the guitar to see if the backbow changes from playing it belly-up as you did while tightening the truss rod.. if the hump came back a little, thats okay its supposed to do that. If it doesn't, hold it back on the bench and back off another half-quarter turn and it should be there again.
Once all that's dialed in, you can file the frets with a specially modified double-cut flat mill file to top the frets. And to remove the scratches left by the file, you sand with a rubber block using 180 then 280 grey dry-cut sandpaper, folowed by buffing with green Scotch-Brite or 4-0 steel wool (if your fingerboard's rosewood, if it's maple, you have to use masking tape to tape off the finish or maple cuz it stains really quickly).
That's a simplified setup. What you're really asking is how to setup a Floyd mounted guitar and for a beginner to understand it, that's the whole process. It's not just "well lets try a #3 flatblade screwdriver on those pivot screws" I wish it were that simple.
You can also use a fresh Bastard Cut file to remove the wood from between your ears. It will give your skull room to breathe, and might even increase your IQ by half a point or so, bringing you up to the intelligence level of balsa wood.
No such thing as a spark plug gap of 22-23 thousandths coward, hence there are no gap tools that go down that low. 0.25" is the lowest and they don't make them in strips, they are like this.....
Or this
I cherry pick (and you're famous for this) because you always try to be so descriptive in your advise, showcasing your vast knowledge on these subjects, and it's fun to see you fall on your nose over stupid bullshit lies that prove you little of what you talk about, because you don't know enough to know what you should, or shouldn't copy and paste.....
Chainsaw Muthuafucka
My folks were married years before my birth, so you're wrong there..
Quoting Cato here.. "Umm?"No such thing as a spark plug gap of 22-23 thousandths coward, hence there are no gap tools that go down that low. 0.25" is the lowest and they don't make them in strips, they are like this.....
Or this
I cherry pick (and you're famous for this) because you always try to be so descriptive in your advise, showcasing your vast knowledge on these subjects, and it's fun to see you fall on your nose over stupid bullshit lies that prove you little of what you talk about, because you don't know enough to know what you should, or shouldn't copy and paste.....
No I am not, fucking dumbass. Despite your abandonment issues, I was not referring to you as a 'bastard'. A fucking loser asshole is the correct description for you.
It is obvious you have failed to Google this in order to attempt to demonstrate you know anything about tools, even though you are one:
A bastard file is a file whose teeth configuration is in between a rough or coarse file and a 'second cut' file. In precise terms therefore a bastard file is one which 'is one cut finer than that of a coarse file'.
In common language a bastard is an illegitimate child, one born out of wedlock. However it may also allude to something that is unusual, irregular or disproportionate. It is this latter meaning that is employed in the term bastard file, not the former.
When used for a file the word bastard means irregular, in other words, a file that can neither be classified as a 'coarse file' or as a 'second cut file'.
Read more: Where did the 'Bastard File' get its odd name? | Answerbag http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...#ixzz0tZwbXNIb
Last edited by Hardrock69; 07-13-2010 at 12:08 PM.
That's a general use feeler gauge, not a spark plug gap tool coward. Why would you need 0.005" on a spark plug ?? Tell me? You pride yourself on how correct you are, and you still can't get it right...Quoting Cato here.. "Umm?"
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Last edited by Igosplut; 07-13-2010 at 12:38 PM. Reason: HTML
To get an accurate slip-gap of any size between the smallest gauge blade up to the maximum stackwidth or any inbetween gap you need you pull or add blades to make up the gap.
Gee, you're Mister Motorcycle Man and I need to tell this shit to you? Or Google couldn't tel you: nevermind I shall explain -
Let's say you need 25 thou and you tweaked the .025 blade, you can use a .020 with a .005 on top of it. Do the math.
OR: add a 6 thou on top of a 19 to get 25. OR a nine, a five and an eleven... or... HAHAHAA~!! You don't know do you or you wouldnt be asking..
I suppose I should start a Guitar Tech Toolbox thread, and explain the features and benefits of a 9v battery and how it's used.
Or a screwdriver.
NAH fuck that, my stalkers will call me a liar when Google can't find links they can understand within the Dr. Seuss's 220-word vocabulary list.
What's the standard plug gap sizes? Might they be the one's that are on the plug gap tools I posted? Maybe??
And just maybe the general service feeler gauges have increments that you wouldn't HAVE to make a 25 as it's already there??
You can't twist it around enough to look right to anybody but yourself here.
DO IT. Right here in the gear forum. Please. I can post pictures of my tool box. No problem, to PROVE what I own, and what I'm talking about. DOM meters, the works....Let's talk...
But you won't. You won't even respond to this because I can prove everything I say and you can't..Put up or shut up.....
Anybody else wanna see stuff like that ???? chime in...
i would like to see DOM minatrixes
Another one of those classic genius posts, sure to generate responses. You log on the next day to see what your witty gem has produced to find no one gets it and 2 knotheads want to stick their dicks in it... Well played, sir!!
I would like to see a 3/4in deep 1/2 in drive impact socket shoved in GAR's pie hole.
I'll post a tease of my socket drawer to start, this was from a few years ago and it has MORE in it now......I would like to see a 3/4in deep 1/2 in drive impact socket shoved in GAR's pie hole.
pics takin' for insurance reasons? or to remember where they go.
Holy Shit. Nice beer can.
Yep, for insurance reasons. I'll take updated one's if GARgle has the balls to put up the thread. I'm running out of room in that drawer. The wrench drawer is completely full.pics takin' for insurance reasons? or to remember where they go.
shove that in gar's assHoly Shit. Nice beer can.
That was for perspective. That drawer is 70" longHoly Shit. Nice beer can.
I was intrigued by the ride in the second picture, as there is a lot of chrome showing. What's the vehicle, Igo?
PM me your Email and I send you pictures and descriptions. And your PM box is full.....I was intrigued by the ride in the second picture, as there is a lot of chrome showing. What's the vehicle, Igo?
LOL. That's what I tell my wife when those are piled up in the trash.
That is big damn box fo sure.
chevy II?
Bwahahahaaa! PUSSY BITCH!!!!!
Last edited by Diamondjimi; 07-13-2010 at 05:31 PM.
Nice! good lookin' ride.
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