And you're proving daily that you possess at best minimal levels. BEYOND a shadow of a doubt.Originally Posted by GAR
Didn't learn anything, did you, hammerhead? STFU or your bullshit posts get dumped on sight - AGAIN.
This from the guy that can't use spell-check.
And you're proving daily that you possess at best minimal levels. BEYOND a shadow of a doubt.
Didn't learn anything, did you, hammerhead? STFU or your bullshit posts get dumped on sight - AGAIN.
No implication necessary, loser. It is ironic that a brain-dead fuckwad such as yourself wants to argue about 'intellect', fucking Uncle-Tom Bitch!
Spell-check often?
You know, I actually did some calling around about custom-made necks.
This project is gonna have to take a bolt on neck. In the last 10 years it looks like strat-style neck orders have become 98 percent of the business, and nobody knows who they'd refer me to for a custom non-Fender tyle neck such as a mortise joint bodystyle like the Flying V.
Now I do have an old Hondo flying v, but that's a bolton Fender-type neck too. I could get the dimensions measured, but they're still going to come out like a strat.
First we'd measure the depth of the top and back routings, which I know off teh top of my head are 11/16's.
Next, we'd measure a centerline which if the glueline was centered perfectly in the middle of whoever did this pattern, if so get a perfectly straight yardstick or drywall Tsquare and draw a centerline.
Then we'd mark an intonation point on the yardstick/Tsquare at 25-1/2".
If I recall correctly the Fender neckslot is 3-1/2". Draw a perpendicular square line from the neck heel to 3.5" the C-clamp the neck you'll use at that line and scribe around it. That's what the slot will look like.
Measure now from the nut to the 25.5" line on the yardstick and eyeball down from that mark, so you can pencil a mark on the body centerline. That will be your intonation point for the bridge.
Now tape a piece of string between the D and G string nut slots perfectly in the middle with masking tape.
Balance the bridge on top of the body, then pull the string to the middle of the bridgepieces to align the body with the neck, double checking your scribe-line for the neck pocket before a final deep marking of the pocket line. Then take another piece of string and lay it in the high e an dlow e string notches, then cross the bridge taught where those corresponding string pieces exist at the bridge and you'll find out then if your neck and bridge will work together or not or if the fingerboard is wide enough.
Once you got those marks down: neck slot, intonation, and bridge your ready for the pickup: I choose 1-1/4" ahead of the intonation point. That's my sweet-spot, other guys like it right as close to the bridge as possible, but there's no bass response right there. No string tone.
Last thing to do is the controls cavity: I go by feel of the routerbit feeding into the material after scribing the outline of the cavity. I adjust the router 1/2" deep, then pass through the middle-area in clockwise circles milling out the wood to about the last 1/16" inch to the line. Then I stop and adjust the bit another 3/4" and just hog gobs of material out in clockwise circles. As I make passes, quite alot of wind is blowing chips around so I wear sunglasses to keep debris out of my face and eyes while I mill the cavity.
Usually I can feel when the new depth of cut rubs against the prior depth, and nobody's gonna look in the cavity ever. So I just clean up against the edge by eyeballing the two depth cut's edges and if the depth is still no t deep enough after that, it's okay.
A third readjustment takes into consideration how thick the wood will be at the controls poking thru, and to do this you have had to figure in advance where you want controls to be anyways. So just drill the main volume pot hole, and push a piece of clay or playdoh or even mud in the hole, wiping the excess off the back then pull the glob out again. You can then measure the crush-depth of how much clay passed thru the hole, so you know how much more you need to go in the third depth cut.
Some people say this thickness should be 1/8" but that's poplar and i'd go 3/16". If you can only get potentiometers for Stratocaster and the shaft threads do not pass up thru the wood, you can always shave some wood out around the body of the pot with another routing, in that spot, or whittle it with a pocketknife.
Once you get that far, the tremolo rout should be a no-brainer.
And so you think this is relevant to what?
Nobody here gives two shits what YOU would do to one of your imaginary guitars.
To The thread, not your understanding level junior..
While we're on the subject of UNDERSTANDING...
It's irrelevant to the thread since the kid has indicated he's not interested in your input on guitars - imaginary or otherwise.
Gar, I and the other members of the Roth Army openly ask you to
A) Fuck Off
B) Fuck Off
C) Post Pictures Of Your Gear
D) GTFO
E) Use Your Brain
F) All Of The Above
Reading Crazy From the Heat in four hours flat, in a cramped RV, on the return trip of a 3,000+ mile family outing to New Jersey is an enlightening experience you'll never forget.
Is it appropriate for me to add "Lean Mean Owning Machine" to my sig?
There are still yet more trolls for you to slap around first, grasshopper.
I think officially you have to slap around 3 out of 4 resident trolls for that...Is it appropriate for me to add "Lean Mean Owning Machine" to my sig?
Will change it soon
Another thing you could do with that body is flip it back to Ebay where you found it.
I found it in my grandmother's basement. My dad and his best friend built it themselves. I'm not going to sell it, douchewaffle
Keep it up!
This thread has long since digressed past the point of discussion, I have a good idea of what I want to do with the body and, I think that this thread should be closed until any work gets done on the guitar. Unless owning Gar is that amusing
No probs. PM me if you'd like it re-opened when you have some progress to report.
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