Title is silly... but this has 15 minutes of some of the most powerful surfing shots I've seen in a long while!!
Oh to be 20 again....
Title is silly... but this has 15 minutes of some of the most powerful surfing shots I've seen in a long while!!
Oh to be 20 again....
"If you want to be a monk... you gotta cook a lot of rice...”
What? No surf bums on this beach..?
How about a 90 footer..? Holy shit...
My parents moved us to the coast when I was 12... traded in horses & rodeo for a surf board. I surfed competitively in my teens and reached a ranking of 3rd in World Surfing Association back in the 70's for junior men's knee-boarding. Competition wasn't much more than mostly northern & southern California kids... occasionally a few Australians & Hawaiians scrapped up the money to travel and compete. Nothing like today with big sponsors and global competition.
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