BFS's soul / funk guitar rig

[Big Fat Sammy]

here it is...

[Big Fat Sammy]

and the board...

[GAR]

I'd suggest you put the wah to the far right;

- then put the power strip to the far left w/switch to the top, channel switchbox to the right of that, elevated on a chunk of 2x4 cutoff nailed to the board underneath it.

Then put a DOD270 ($30 switchbox) below that to option either distortion, the big green (Fulltone?) or the TS9 reissue because it looks like you "sometimes" like the TS9 but can't decide to take the Fulltone off the board because you like that too, well you dont have to.

Then put the blue Arion phaser next to the DOD270 A-B swtich/ampchannel arrangement, then the TS9 then the wah.

The wah should be first in all chains IMO.

So physically going from right to left:

Wah, Fulltone (rotated sideways), TS9 and Phaser (side-by-side but below Fulltone) Channel Switch (elevated by 2x4) above, DOD a-b box below, powerstrip.

Electrically, going form right to left inputs:

Crybaby Wah>a-B Box (to Fulltone and TS9 Ins)>phaser>amp.

Channel switch isn't in the path because it has no live signal obviously.

[Big Fat Sammy]

GAR,

see what you can come up with now, with a little more info...

...thats the way I would run it, BUT I am LEFT LEGGED! But I'm right handed. My left foot goes on the wah wah, and it must be on the left, because there isn't always much room to move around.


The phase is an electra phase btw.


The BIG Green is an echo that I use on only one song, last in the chain. Sits on the floor..uses a battery only. Its just laying there in the pic.. No need to worry bout that one.

The tubescreamer is used as a boost on the overdrive channel only, so I really don't need the a/b box, I don't think.

The open space where the Big GREEN is sitting, is for a boss distortion that I use sometimes, for one reason....


I'm looking for a distortion ( the boss one, it sucks for this) that will be very distorted and thick sustain and CAN BE ADJUSTED TO DO THAT at VERY low volumes...for songs that I play single string leads UNDERNEATH singers...kinda like the Isley Bros...but I get regular volume when its bypassed..maybe a Big Muff would do that.

[Big Fat Sammy]

Oh yeah, I do need to raise the channel switch. lol

[GAR]

What is that board anyways, a piece of bookshelf?

It will do fine till you finalize your setup.

[Big Fat Sammy]

Its plywood. They are garbage bag tied on. Its been switched around and changed alot. As you can see the missing wood where there is no paint, holes drilled everywhere.

This is a step up for me....I was using one of those plastic racks they put flowers in...like from a greenhouse or nursery, here's a pic of that raggedy shit...lol

[jojo2371]

i totally agree with gar on that set-up (cool gear btw) tell me how does that traynor sound by itself ? is it 1 speaker or 2 ???

[GAR]

The problem, and I agree with your dilemna because I prefer the left foot on the wah, ithe deal is that most pedals have their inputs on the Rhand side, outputs on Lhand.

Trying to move it the other way around is one solution: other words, reverse my recommendation and drill 1" holes beneath each input with a Spade bit or a hole saw, like what is used for doing doorlock sets onto new doors.

I'd first draw a front-line so the layout's pretty clear and balanced for carrying purposes. Sharpie-marker an outline around each pedal with 2" between, with the face of each pedal close along that boards' front straightline.

Then, mark an arrow pointing to each jack between pedals.

Then, drill the 1" hole exactly equidistant, between those marks for the patch connections to come up from underneath.

Last Id relocate the power strip and wallwart adaptors to the underside ledge of that board because it looks like it's high enough up to allow it. Add a 1x4" trim across from underneath and bolt the powerstrip to that and it should be fine. Id also drive a pair of drywall screws above and below each wallwart plugged in to lace some 20 gauge baling or copper wire around there to hold the warts in place because I FUCKING HATE when the powers come loose and you have to fuck with 'em to come on.

That's why I like the DC Power brick idea.

[GAR]

The other thing I wanted to mention is how great 1" or wider strips of Velcro Adhesive Fabric works for pedalboards if you didn't already know.

Zip ties used as hold downs never really work out except as a theft deterrant retainer.

[Big Fat Sammy]

Thanks,

It's one speaker. Everyone thinks there is two. But just one 12in.

Sounds great. I was using a Marshall JCM 602 for about 8 years (cracked circut board) and switched to Fender for a couple of months. First a vintage Deluxe Reverb '73 (great clean tone, but only one channel) then a new Hot Rod Deville 4-10 (overpriced, heavy as shit, way too loud, and the disto channel sucked)

...then got this Traynor about 20 gigs ago.

It is better than any new Fender in the clean channel and the OD channel blows any Fenders OD away...even the ones that cost twice as much. The drive channel sounds like the Marshall when I use the TS and it is very quiet compared to both the Fenders and Marshall. So its my all time favorite amp so far. I don't miss the Marshall at all now, as this amp is more reliable and consistent, and no hum at all. Plus its self biasing.

The guitar is a 52 reisue Fender Tele with a $50 Tiawan "Premier" neck (truss rod doesn't work lol) but I wore the frets off the original neck (they were small to start with). Other than the pickgaurd and neck, all stock.

[Big Fat Sammy]

Originally posted by GAR
The problem, and I agree with your dilemna because I prefer the left foot on the wah, ithe deal is that most pedals have their inputs on the Rhand side, outputs on Lhand.

Trying to move it the other way around is one solution: other words, reverse my recommendation and drill 1" holes beneath each input with a Spade bit or a hole saw, like what is used for doing doorlock sets onto new doors.

I'd first draw a front-line so the layout's pretty clear and balanced for carrying purposes. Sharpie-marker an outline around each pedal with 2" between, with the face of each pedal close along that boards' front straightline.

Then, mark an arrow pointing to each jack between pedals.

Then, drill the 1" hole exactly equidistant, between those marks for the patch connections to come up from underneath.

Last Id relocate the power strip and wallwart adaptors to the underside ledge of that board because it looks like it's high enough up to allow it. Add a 1x4" trim across from underneath and bolt the powerstrip to that and it should be fine. Id also drive a pair of drywall screws above and below each wallwart plugged in to lace some 20 gauge baling or copper wire around there to hold the warts in place because I FUCKING HATE when the powers come loose and you have to fuck with 'em to come on.

That's why I like the DC Power brick idea.

So what you are sayin' is....just run my main cord coming from the guitar underneath the board and up through a hole next to the wah input?

Then run one out of the wah (underneath again) back to where i normally would plug in right?

And one more question...will that velcro hold even if i turn the board upside down? lol seriously.

[GAR]

Velcro holds anything to anything if the strip adhesive has a clean and non-greasy surface to attach to.

I've even used it for them big clunky Ernie Ball Stereo Volume pedals, they weigh about 5 pounds.



- and what I was saying is if you take my layout advice and just flip it around, and run your patch cords from underneath you should be able to still get by with the same short cords between effects, because instead of going from right-to-left, your first input will be to a wah pedal on the left - so the patching then goes from left-to-right but from underneath the board.

[GAR]

Roxy, 1990.

This guy used Velcro like carpet on his effects, I never had a problem working his rig losing anything on the pedalboard and he had a difficult setup so it had to flawless.

If all you can get is 1" wide velcro rolls, tape them from edge to edge of the bottom of your effect and then trip the excess off with a box cutter razor or similar knife, then roll the edge tight so no dirt or contamination works the fabric loose.

[Big Fat Sammy]

cool I will try that and have it ready for this weekend.

I just need one long patch cord to go underneath from the wah out to the TS input.