Should I be concerned about this?

[Sarge]

I bought a double bound body and a flamed neck from USACG and had luthier that builds to order (not mentioning his name) finish, assemble and setup the instrument.
I paid for a Lake Placid Blue new non reliced finish. I told him that I didn't care if the guitar was painted in nitro or poly (thin poly)

He ended up going with nitro.

When he was done he sent me 5 pictures and in every single picture I can find small imperfections. I wasn't looking too hard, they were just visable in every picture. Some of them I couldn't tell if it was the flash or just chips.

Here is one of them
http://www.rotharmy.com/images/chip.jpg

I didn't want to sound too picky so i asked about just the above neck pocket chip.
What kind of angered me was that when I asked if that was a chip, this was his response..



---------------
I did the best I could but there is a small chip in the neck pocket that isn't going to be repairable...I can repair it, but then it will be more visible. There is a small chip in the pocket. also...the "hammer in" cup jack caused checking around its edges. the only way to have made this guitar completely new would have been to have used 20+ coats of nitro which would have been nearly 3 times the film thickness of poly. Ever noticed that Fender only does "closet classics" in real nitro? This is exactly why. The only thing that I could do if you're not happy would be to strip it and send it back with a refund.
----------------


I don't mean to complain but if I wanted a closet classic finish I would have paid for it.
Chips in the neck pocket and chips on the jak cup are not part of a closet classic finish. Chips near the jack cup show that the jack cup was not installed correctly.
What bothers me is the guy thinks I am being unreasonable to expect that the guitar should have a new finish.
I don't really consider myself that picky of a person. The neck pocket chip bothers me .. because that is one of the first places I look at on a guitar to evaluate the neck/body fit and to see of there is any cracks in the body.

Am I focusing on the wrong thing or being too picky?

[ZahZoo]

I don't think you're being unreasonable.

That chip near the neck pocket could be easily repaired by drop filling the thing with the base color, then mask off all but the chip area and shoot a light coat of clear on it. Done right he may not even have to buff it out.

If he used real nitro... the fresh clear should just melt into the surrounding finish coat. Nitro never fully dries... technically speaking.

[indeedido]

Every guitar I've painted with lacquer, chips at the neck pocket when I attach the neck. Lacquer takes years to fully cure, in fact never really cures completely. It is very brittle. It dries and is sandable in a month, but is still brittle. I just finished up my lynch tiger and chiped it in the same damn spot no matter how careful I was. My next one will be poly.

Lacquer breathes better over time and has better tone, but is a bitch to handle.

Now I don't have a business and sell paint jobs, but if I did it would have to be flawless before I released one. Seems to me you are right on to complain. If I paid for a paint job, I better be the one to chip the paint. A professional would know how to do this.

[ELVIS]

Get a refund...

I've had PERFECT results done for me and I have achieved perfect results doing some of these things myself...

I imagine you paid a fortune for the work...

Take your refund and the strip offer and get it finished in poly, especially if you want it to look new and shiny...and stay that way...


:elvis:

[GAR]

You're not being too picky, but it sounds like it's being finished by an autobody shop or just some helpful guy with a sprayer. People like that don't account for the added thickness the paint creates to bind parts like the jack-cup, the string ferrules, the neckbolts and pocket. At the factory, which I had visited before so I know, they'd use a Dremel with a die grinder bit or a sandpaper 80-grit to remove drips before smashing the cup in. And they don't smash it in, there's a steel clip shim with a hole that actually does the "holding" of the cup in the hole using the jack as the connector - the cup in never smashed in with a hammer, its a loose fit not a snug fit.

Those cracks are his fault, if he's in the business of finishing guitars he's expected to know fit-and-finish issues, and its not debatable.

That break-out is the result of a weak area, commonly addressed at the bare-wood stage by hand-blending and shaping with a safety razor, proper masking and trimming of the tape prior to paint w/exacto blades, and careful buffing.

Guitars I've done do not have these issues, any fit and finish bullshit gets settled first before the first coat of anything.

From the photo it looks like he didn't shape that thin area before paint.

If his skills aren't that strong, go to the 99 cent store get a small bottle of nail polish clear, wash it out with lacquer thinner and send it to him to fill with the original color for future touchups.

When you get the body, dab it yourself.

[GAR]

Get a refund...



I wouldn't advise that, I'd ask for some touchup paint to be sent back in a baby-food jar or something and dab the spot myself from the original color.

It doesn't look that terrible to warrant a refin, not at all. I'm more concerned with the binding tape-off job looking a little blocky but even that's negligible.

Just play dammit! Get it back, assemble it and love the thing.. its not a bad color choice

[GAR]

Every guitar I've painted with lacquer, chips at the neck pocket when I attach the neck.

You're missing a subtle but important step - the pocket must be dressed before fitting the neck or you will always bust out that piece.

Really it should be shaped before paint, but sometimes a refinish will buildup a ledge, and in that case it needs to be dressed by removing with sandpaper, xacto knife or with a file or a combination of these tools.

[Sarge]

You're not being too picky, but it sounds like it's being finished by an autobody shop or just some helpful guy with a sprayer. People like that don't account for the added thickness the paint creates to bind parts like the jack-cup, the string ferrules, the neckbolts and pocket. At the factory, which I had visited before so I know, they'd use a Dremel with a die grinder bit or a sandpaper 80-grit to remove drips before smashing the cup in. And they don't smash it in, there's a steel clip shim with a hole that actually does the "holding" of the cup in the hole using the jack as the connector - the cup in never smashed in with a hammer, its a loose fit not a snug fit.

Those cracks are his fault, if he's in the business of finishing guitars he's expected to know fit-and-finish issues, and its not debatable.

That break-out is the result of a weak area, commonly addressed at the bare-wood stage by hand-blending and shaping with a safety razor, proper masking and trimming of the tape prior to paint w/exacto blades, and careful buffing.

Guitars I've done do not have these issues, any fit and finish bullshit gets settled first before the first coat of anything.

From the photo it looks like he didn't shape that thin area before paint.

If his skills aren't that strong, go to the 99 cent store get a small bottle of nail polish clear, wash it out with lacquer thinner and send it to him to fill with the original color for future touchups.

When you get the body, dab it yourself.

This was a professional job done by the guy at http://kingbeeguitars.com and it wasn't cheap.
He builds relics and non relics... but I think the reason why he is into building relic guitars is because his attention to detail is lacking.

I don't have the guitar... he still has it.
Here is a picture of the front
(attached)
http://www.rotharmy.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=85&d=1233357964
It has Don Mare Tweed Monster pickups
a custom pitched pocket from USACG
10 inch radius neck from USACG
Tom style roller bridge for the bigsby..

It should be cool, but the guy doesn't seem to be very good at customer service.
Every email he seems to get more pissed at me.

Gar, the jack cup is a hammer in one found at glendaleguitars.com

He also needs to put screws in the pickguard.
I am going to ask him to fix the defect and see where that leads me.

Breasts,
Sarge

[GAR]

If he just can do a touch-up with a dab of paint to color the wood it should be fine.

If he can't I'd use blue Magic Marker to stain the wood exposed before dabbing some finernail polish clear over it.

[GAR]

The jack cup cracking the paint thing: I'd be disappointed about that, but even then the guy's supposed to know to clear the overspray so the knurling can bite into bare wood.

His strong suit is paint, not assembly. I'd ask for half labor cost refunded, and hope to settle for a third labor cost refund.

[Seshmeister]

He also needs to put screws in the pickguard.


Not a good sign...

[GAR]

Best modern Tele ever made, when a real 52 can't be had..

http://www.detempleguitars.com/temp/CATALOG_ITEMS/DeTemple_52.php

Six grand says you get any color you want, properly assembled, but with a 1 year waiting period.

[Sarge]

Best modern Tele ever made, when a real 52 can't be had..

http://www.detempleguitars.com/temp/CATALOG_ITEMS/DeTemple_52.php

Six grand says you get any color you want, properly assembled, but with a 1 year waiting period.

I would rather buy from Ron Kirn...
Or sort through a stack and find a nice Custom Fender.
6 grand is way overpriced for a simple guitar like a telecaster

Breasts,

[ELVIS]

Gar, If i'm not mistaken, he already offered a strip and a refund...

If you can notice some of these smaller flaws in a photo, not to mention an unacceptable chip, imagine the flaws after Sarge recieves it and goes over it with a fine-toothed comb...


If the guy was capable of a professional touch up, he would have done so prior to sending Sarge the pics...

Sarge, get your money back...If you don't, I predict it's going to continue to bother you to the point where you end up getting rid of the guitar and take a loss...

I imagine you being quite a perfectionist and thats what my prediction is based on...


Just my 22 cents...;)


:elvis:

[ELVIS]

Best modern Tele ever made, when a real 52 can't be had..



I could never get past that awful headstock shape...

Might as well be playing a Hondo...the headstock looks like one...


:elvis:

[Sarge]

Gar, If i'm not mistaken, he already offered a strip and a refund...

If you can notice some of these smaller flaws in a photo, not to mention an unacceptable chip, imagine the flaws after Sarge recieves it and goes over it with a fine-toothed comb...


If the guy was capable of a professional touch up, he would have done so prior to sending Sarge the pics...

Sarge, get your money back...If you don't, I predict it's going to continue to bother you to the point where you end up getting rid of the guitar and take a loss...

I imagine you being quite a perfectionist and thats what my prediction is based on...


Just my 22 cents...;)


:elvis:

I haven't wrote the guy back yet.

I can't imagine him not being ble to do a touch up on it like he claims.
He also told me that the pickups (DON MARE) sounded really bland.
I think that is due to his shitty setup. He is supposed to (according to him) be an ace at building guitars.
I think he sent me a picture of the nicks on purpose to see if I would say anything.
What a douche.
I should have went with someone else...

And yes.. I am kind of a perfectionist. I am more rectal than anal. I am pretty much just the whole peri anus area.

Breasts,
Sarge

[ELVIS]

Have it stripped and send it to someone else...

Like Tom Petty said...

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:elvis:

[indeedido]

You're missing a subtle but important step - the pocket must be dressed before fitting the neck or you will always bust out that piece.

Really it should be shaped before paint, but sometimes a refinish will buildup a ledge, and in that case it needs to be dressed by removing with sandpaper, xacto knife or with a file or a combination of these tools.

I figured that out this time right after it happened. LOL. too little too late, BUT there is always next time!

[ELVIS]

If you have the neck handy (which this guy did if i'm not mistaken) you should be checking the fit throughout the finishing process...

[Seshmeister]

If he doesn't his head will probably fall off...

[GAR]

Sarge, even if I with my experience were to do the touchup, there may still be a shadow where the clearcoat area is. It is near impossible to just do a small golfball sized area, it's easier to do the whole thing.

I don't trust the guys' skills to strip it, either. Get it back as is, settle on a price and if you can't learn to deal with it as it is minor, play it for a year, scratch it up, in the meanwhile take the time to find a competent refin guy.

GMW here in LA does xlnt work, Glendora CA.

[GAR]

Might as well be playing a Hondo...the headstock looks like one...

Someday.. you'll understand. It's not about the headstock at all, but what it brings out of you that a fine instrument like that can do for you.

[ELVIS]

I'm sitting here in my living room looking at nine guitars and two bases, all strung and ready to be plugged in...

I have well over ten more in various states of assembly, repair or modification...

I know what a fine instrument is...

But if I think what i'm playing looks like shit, (I mean truly don't like it cosmetically) it does affect my inspiration and/or desire to play...

I'm sure some DeTemple guitars are excellent instruments...I can pretty much tell that by looking at their website...

But I HATE that headstock...

Someday.. you'll understand...


:elvis:

[ELVIS]

But i'm sure I don't need a "Fossilized Mastodon nut."


LMAO!

[hideyoursheep]

But i'm sure I don't need a "Fossilized Mastodon nut."

:confused10

:lmao:

[jhale667]

Yeah Sarge, I'd agree get a refund (or at least a sizable discount), knock about on it a bit and touch it up, or have it refinished (btw, GMW was no longer accepting outside finishing work last I heard, GAR...has that changed?); but I don't think I'd let the other guy mess around with it anymore either.

I've gone so far as to do "dry-runs"; fully assemble the guitar unfinished. That way all your screw-holes are already drilled, you know everything fits. Once you get it back from being finished, prep the contact points of the neck and hardware as described and there ya go...

:guitar:

[ELVIS]

I've gone so far as to do "dry-runs"; fully assemble the guitar unfinished.

:guitar:

I do that several times throughout a project, including stringing it up and playing it...Especially if it involves drilling holes for bridge or trem placement...

Even though you have a tiny bit of wiggle room on a bolt on neck guitar, after stringing it up a couple of times you get a feel for exactly how you want the neck to sit in the pocket...

I pick necks and bodies that fit well together. Tight, but not too tight and sand, trim and finish the pocket prior to the last installation...

By that point, I know it's going to fit without any chance of breaking the finish...

In that first pic it looks like the neck might be too tight which can exacerbate the problem causing the chipped area to get worse...


:elvis:

[78/84 guy]

It will bug you, I would say have him strip it and send it back but how well will he strip it ? I would tell him you were expecting perfection for the money and you are not happy with the results. I would ask for some of your'e money back, get the guitar back and find someone else to fix the chip's in it. It sounds like a common problem when assembling guitar's with this type of paint because of the thickness. I would not let this guy strip it !! My guitars are all beat to shit so it's hard to know how much it will bother you to know it's touched up. It look's cool to me but the first thing I would do is run the thing into a door walking around the house playing it !!

[GAR]

My guitars are all beat to shit so it's hard to know how much it will bother you to know it's touched up. It look's cool to me but the first thing I would do is run the thing into a door walking around the house playing it !!

I used to be very critical about finishes, carefully buying only those perfectly smooth.

Now I only care about weight, playability and tone.

If the guy strips the finish, based on his tape-off job on doing the binding, I wouldn't want to risk the stripper eating into the binding when he strips it.

And I'm willing to bet you don't notice all that little anal bullshit once you play a year into it. You're gonna notice more how your buckle rashed the back of it, the jeans rivets, stupid stuff like that.

IMExperience the first ding is the heartbreaker, the hymen-buster.. the DeVirginizer. After this, it'll be easier to look at it as a playing instrument and not a wall-hanging edifice of "God ain't it purty.. it's perfect, don't touch it" proportions.

[78/84 guy]

Yah, I would worry about the binding getting screwed up stripping it.

[GAR]

If a novice were to ask how to strip a body, I'd say use Jasco Epoxystrip in the paste form, one quart. Use one of those nylon stripping putty knives so as not to gouge the wood or anything.

The sanding part is where the skills come in, you're removing gobs of paint about 0.020 to 0.025" inches thickness, leaving the binding masked off maybe an eighth of an inch to a quarter past the binding, just to be carefull not to bleed stripper under it when scraping or it'll melt and you're fucked... and when you go to machine sand the front and back smooth with the tape removed, you have to be able to tell by eye twenty-thousandths' thickness difference and when you get to that point where you're flush with the body and binding together with 120 grit, you stop and go no further. Because you have to leave a little clear on the binding for hand-sanding removal which doesn't go very fast with 180 or 240 grit. And at that point you can't have 80 or 120 grit scratches because it's all got to be flush.

When a novice notices little spots of clear still on the binding in a strip job, yet he went over the whole thing with the fine paper, he's got a problem because he still has to go down further and if he does he may create lumps or unevenness that did not exist in the original barebody condition.

Then the guy's hating himself because he knows the body's ruined, and not only does he have to offer obtaining a new body for the client, he's obiged to fuck himself yet again by attempting to repaint the thing - and the risk of fucking up once more.

I knew all this shit could happen when I was a teenager, which is why I sought to work in the factorys to see how they solved each stage. I would never call myself competant in the field of fit n finish if I didn't have the training, and you only get it by repetitious training, or apprenticeships.

[GAR]

(I'm omitting the parts about working under a lightbulb to catch the scratches, and how to sand properly with the rubber block to maintain square sides and edges in case the guy is actually reading this. Because I can.)

[jhale667]

I'm sitting here in my living room looking at nine guitars and two bases, all strung and ready to be plugged in...

I have well over ten more in various states of assembly, repair or modification...

I know what a fine instrument is...

But if I think what i'm playing looks like shit, (I mean truly don't like it cosmetically) it does affect my inspiration and/or desire to play...

I'm sure some DeTemple guitars are excellent instruments...I can pretty much tell that by looking at their website...

But I HATE that headstock...

Someday.. you'll understand...


:elvis:


Nice.
My collection (finished and project) isn't quite so large, but I agree completely that if something about the instrument bugs you, it will nag you while you're playing the damn thing...
That is of course when one must go into Nigel Tufnel-mode, "be a professional, and rise above it":rofl: but that certainly is not meant to imply one must tolerate it indefinitely!
In my case, one of my guitar's unintentional quirks annoyed me to the point where I'm replacing the body, fer cryin' out loud...lol :pullinghair: So it's basically a new guitar with an old friend for its neck...:D
I played the thing (as a backup mainly) for years before being simultaneously pissed off enough about it and having the time, and means to finally correct the error.

:guitar:

[jhale667]

But yeah, Sarge...if you can get a decent percentage refund-wise on it, unless you decide to live with the unintentional "relic", have someone (other than that guy) knowledgeable inspect it in person first to see if it can be repaired/salvaged to a point where it isn't glaringly noticeable at least, and if the rest of those swirls that appear to be in the pics can be buffed out...if it can't, have it professionally redone.
Just so it doesn't turn into one of those "most expensive finish ever" scenarios, y'know?

[GAR]

Painting guitars for me is more about sealing the grain of the wood from exposure to open-air moisture which isn't good, secondary on the list of reasons is to have an attractive finish, and thirdly is perfection.

Unfortunately, my third listed is most buyer's first listed, including mine as a kid. I passed over an MPC Les Paul sunburst copy for $165 in 1980 for a Kay SG/2 copy for $130 not just because it would have meant saving another 2 months of paper route money pedaling for Pasadena Star-News which paid about $28 a month, but because the finish was Purdier.

Who fucking cares about what's the prettier finish.. Sarge is gonna be more pissed if the neck wiggles in the joint or isn't bolted correctly. I learned the hard way as a kid what was more important: I passed over the superior instrument with better everything which would have hastened my learning curve if I'd just overlooked the finish.

Purdy finishes are for fucking coffee tables and women like mine who want 'em polished every Saturday afternoon and I say fuck fuck fuck that! Guitars are for playing, you'll scratch 'em up doing all kinda improper things, and a spot inside the cutaway is no big deal. Ask for 50&#37; off, expect 30% off, settle for 25%. The paint ain't cheap, and you don't want the possibility of retribution damage from a pissed off painter who painted hisself into a corner lacking the experience of the full disciples of luthiery. And solidbody instruments aren't even high-level luthiery, they're painted planks that you only notice plugged in.

The bolting trick I will give out: push yer undrilled neck furthest into the neck slot with the frets on the bench, and maybe the body supported by a folded terry towel - drill the back 2 holes directly in center of the body holes as a guide. Then drive those 2 bolts down into the body, back off a full turn.

Then, you drill the front 2 screwholes angled down towards the end of the body. It's a very slight angle, but what this will do for the joint when you attach a neck is it pulls the neck into the slot, stabilizing it. Hand tighten, do not drill-driver the bolts onto the plate.. take a #2 Phillips driver and hand tighten it until you see no gap between the angled head and the plate, and between the plate and the body, very carefull watch for paint bulging and if it does bulge back off 1/8 turn by eye.

Then you hand-tighten the first 2 bolts by eye the final turn.

This trick demonstrates that how most people do not understand why they can never get a neck on a body properly, they tend to give up in frustration and just deal with a sustain-sucking gap at the neck and body, and the unknown factor necessary to overcome this.. the outward pair of screws should be doing the grabbing, or cinching, of the neck down to the body to close that gap, after the front 2 screws do the "pulling" of the neck into the slot of the body.

If they paint guy doesn't mount the neck properly, the repairman who does the doweling of the drilled neck holes to mount it a second time once Sarge gets it back will understand the proper procedure and get it right. It's a required understanding of mounting a neck. And by doweling, you don't need much more than a couple toothpicks - three at best with a dab of white glue set aside 20 mins before trimming flush with an exacto blade.

The factory uses examination swabs actually, because a bulk pack of 100 costs nothing, and the wood stick end is just oversized of the drill size used for the screwhole.

[GAR]

That being said I'm probably one of a dozen finishers in SoCal with my level of skill, the only other guy among us that isn't with a factory is that "Screaming Leaming" guy (DanLawrence) working for GMW Guitars.

If they get slow, say in the summer, they might accept an odd one-off refin request if it has to be perfect. I noticed during the annual Glendora artfest they had some miscellaneous bodies drying in the alley which looked like customer refinishes, not their own designs which is why I recommend them when they have the time to accomodate it.

[ELVIS]

Sounds like my finished product would produce purdier results than yours...:biggrin:

And I have one Strat that sounds better with the neck tilted back slightly using the allen wrench tilt function on a 2000 Anerican Strat...So go figure...

And many many Factory Fenders and other bolt on guitars have a small shim in the pocket from the factory...

I never got a clear answer what that was about, and when I remove the shim the guitara (in all cases) still strings up with perfect allignment and sounds fine...


:elvis:

[ELVIS]

But i'm no pro like you think, I mean, like you are, Gar, but I have applied many finishes (never did a sunburst yet, but I want to try one day) with beautiful results over the last 23 - 24 years or so...And i've had my share of fuckups...

I also do a bit of every kind of repair for a few of the local players in this little area (I used to do substiantially more) and my work is good and i've made quite a few people very happy, especially after a "pro" told them on the phone than the repar or work they needed was impossible or too expensive or time consuming...

I'm known by a few guitarists in the area as "The Wizard" for my ability to set-up, adjust or repair all sorts of floating bridge problems on guitars with a floyd, floyd copy, kahler, wilkinson, fender and/or all the copies out there both good and bad...I can get it up and running for them, and show some of my routine maintenence tips and tricks so they can keep their instrument playing longer with less headaches...

I have a`friend who is on the verge of becoming pro with his band and I keep hinting that he's gonna need a tech...:cool8:


:elvis:

[GAR]

Sounds like my finished product would produce purdier results than yours...

Probably so since I'm not setup to spray, else I wouldn't refer Sarge to GMW... I've done enough charity work for many lifetimes, and I play these things not buy 'em a purse and a dress after a few rolls in the sack.

[ELVIS]

Probably so since I'm not setup to spray, else I wouldn't refer Sarge to GMW... I've done enough charity work for many lifetimes, and I play these things not buy 'em a purse and a dress after a few rolls in the sack.

I'm not set up to spray anymore either, but I know what you're talking about also but I had kinda gathered the idea that Sarge actually wanted this guitar to be purdy as well as sound good...

When I was painting everything in site like guitars, motorcycles, boats, jet skis, cars, etc, I was working part time with a fellow guitarist / singer in his shop where he repaired fiberglass boats and I did nursing on the weekend. We talked about going into buisness together combining many specalities but it never happened. Too small of a town I think...

Anyway, I'm back to doing projects for myself only and usually pay if I want paint work, but I still do some and I still want to try a sunburst...


:cool:

[indeedido]

When I was making my first guitars some 10+ years ago, I had GMW paint one for me. I wanted a day glo green as I was making a Vai Charvel Green Meanie. He said I have the perfect color for you. You want my Dweezil Green. It was bad ass. They did a great job with it.

[Sarge]

Bigsby with tuneomatic roller bridge, angled neck pocket, Don Mare pickups

http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww136/kingbeeguitars/IMG_2069.jpg



http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww136/kingbeeguitars/IMG_2078.jpg

[Sarge]

Update.
The guy was really gracious in his reply and he is throwing in a TMO Fat All Parts Neck with tuners, nitro and Nut to make up for it.
That was cool.
It was mailed yesterday so I will give you guys a new Guitar thread and pics then.
I will also list the specs at that time

Breasts,
Sarge

[GAR]

Wow, that was cool of him.

But he knows he fudged alot - look at the top binding tape-off job its not the hottest is it?

I'd be okay with it though because I'm an asshole and only care about the sound. I do like the hardware, it's stunning except for the pickguard which you can replace with the proper Parchment color at your leisure. Pickguard's crisp white doesn't work well with such a blue for me.

Teles with Bigsby's always remind me of Kix "Dont Close Your Eyes"..

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[Sarge]

Wow, that was cool of him.

But he knows he fudged alot - look at the top binding tape-off job its not the hottest is it?

I'd be okay with it though because I'm an asshole and only care about the sound. I do like the hardware, it's stunning except for the pickguard which you can replace with the proper Parchment color at your leisure. Pickguard's crisp white doesn't work well with such a blue for me.

Teles with Bigsby's always remind me of Kix "Dont Close Your Eyes"..

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I thought he did a really poor job with the tape job.
I am waiting until it gets here to see.
I am not expecting much. The guy did it to his best ability.
That is why he feels bad and is throwing in another neck.
Also, I requested a "mint green" pickguard. I think the one on it looks awful.
It's bleach bottle white. It's way too white.

This guitar is a mess. I doubt I will be happy with it..

[Sarge]

I am hoping the ragged edges on the tape job are from the picture being reduced in size.
Who knows.
I may need to have this repainted.
Or not.. who gives a fuck.
It's a shame that with all that flashy hardware we couldn't get the paint right.

Thanks for the video. Haven't seen that is years....

[GAR]

I don't think mint green is the way to go, but aren't Allparts necks made by Warmoth?

You're gonna luurve that fucking thing! Its probably gonna be your best axe. That would be funny.. all worry over nothing..

[Sarge]

I don't think mint green is the way to go, but aren't Allparts necks made by Warmoth?

You're gonna luurve that fucking thing! Its probably gonna be your best axe. That would be funny.. all worry over nothing..


They are made by Fender Japan and believe it or not.. are very nice.

[thome]

If you are looking for a museum piece to hang in a glass case and sell for your retirement, I would bitch .

If not I guess we could see what your belt buckle does to it in a week of playing.(no harsh)

I know nothing about what is expected by guitarists or what the money spent, should bring.

It does look like the inside of the neck pocket should have been masked off the fit in there is wood on wood and any insertion is going to stress the paint / top coats and pop off a chip.

So layers of finish need to be different thicknesses depending on stress levels of the crushing tension of binding wood to wood, wood flexes..and there you go.

I would ask the finisher to take a 100 off the bill and chill or I would ask him to redo it, if for the museum or a investment to sell, not play. and he should say yes without argument.In either scenario.

So, I don't think you are wrong to bitch, just maybe be kind to your crafstman we are a tender artist type easily insulted.

Generally nothing is perfect to us so we are allways depressed and ask too much of ourselves.


Peace