Hey, GAR...

[GAR]

I would just use a 40 to 100 watt soldering iron, make sure the solder bead is wet n shiney before a quick upside-down flip and tapping the solder onto a kitchen table or workspace. You could also use a desoldering tool, which is a spring-backed vacuum plunger device:



.. you push that rod down against the spring inside, hold the hollow white tip against the wet blob of solder:



.. then press the Release button which sucks the melted solder up and off the metal covers' bond to the pickup. $11 at Radio Shack, more elsewhere.

If you're cheapo and don't wanna wait, you can use braided speaker wire held against the solder puddle for a "wicking-action" removal of the solder:



.. or buy a spool of specially-braided flat shit called Desoldering Braid, also from Radio Shack and elsewhere, about $3 bucks.

[GAR]

Also you might want to have a #1 Flat screwdriver on hand to "pull" the pickup out of the cover because sometimes no matter how well you desolder the cover's joint bonding the back plate, a sticky bit sometimes lays behind the joint which you can't reach.

If that's the case, I would jab the flat blade in from the leg-side, under the cover, then pry downward carefully minding not to bend or flex the metal _OR_ to touch the bobbins in any way.

If you jab the bobbins and break the wire, you're fucked. Its now broke and will not work without repair, for which we then must start a "Peeling Down a Humbucker?" how-to thread..

I have bought many a "broken" humbucker off Ebay, even vintage ones, that some dick broke by wanting to remove the cover and subsequently breaking the winds.. mwahh haa haa..

[Cathedral]

Gar, you need to mod this forum, Dude. Your knowledge simply amazes me to no end.

Roth On!

[Coyote]

Originally posted by GAR
Also you might want to have a #1 Flat screwdriver on hand to "pull" the pickup out of the cover because sometimes no matter how well you desolder the cover's joint bonding the back plate, a sticky bit sometimes lays behind the joint which you can't reach.

If that's the case, I would jab the flat blade in from the leg-side, under the cover, then pry downward carefully minding not to bend or flex the metal _OR_ to touch the bobbins in any way.

If you jab the bobbins and break the wire, you're fucked. Its now broke and will not work without repair, for which we then must start a "Peeling Down a Humbucker?" how-to thread..

I have bought many a "broken" humbucker off Ebay, even vintage ones, that some dick broke by wanting to remove the cover and subsequently breaking the winds.. mwahh haa haa..

Ok. One last question. What's with the screws on top of the cover? The so-called "adjustable polepieces"?

[GAR]

The strength of the pickups' bar magnets' magnetism which throws out in a little field above each screw is called the "flux gap" and its sensitivity is moderately affected by how close or far it is to the string that's above it.

Some crappy pickups that have little going for them in the way of note articulation ANYWAYS ain't gonna be affected by the gap to the string, so on those pickups you're limited by having only the pickup height adjustment screws on each side of the pickup to help define or decrease the bass response by how close the low end side is up to the strings.

In cases like these, the manufacturer will try to claim the benefits of the pickup in terms of "powerful magnet" so beware, because the stronger the magnet - the flipside is that the weaker the sensitivity is too. Strong-assed magnets will stop string rotation cold and kill off highs (ie DiMarzio X2N Power Plus, Super Distortion, Duncan Distortion, Duncan Invader & Full Shredd.. Quarter Pounder Strat/Tele).

But on really fine and sensitive pickups a balance is found between articulation and magnetic strength: not too "hot" on the copper windings and not too strong of a magnet, either. On pickups like these you can really notice a difference of a few sixteenths of an inch - which is necessary for people with different gauge string sets or style of playing.

Leo Fender fussed for months to get these flux gaps correctly set for the original Stratocaster, back in 1953.. so when Fender fucked it all up in 1977 by changing ALL Strat polepieces to "straight-across" polepieces instead of staggering the gaps, the tone suffered and people noticed it.

People like those who started the early Charvel school of thought like Wayne Charvel, Randy Zacuto and Grover Jackhole.

[GAR]

Originally posted by Cathedral
Gar, you need to mod this forum, Dude. Your knowledge simply amazes me to no end.

Roth On!

Thanks, but Von and Sarge decided to keep with diversity and have 1 mod to a site, either here or there and I chose to honor that when Army came back.

Otherwise you'd see the same mods on all the boards..

[Cathedral]

Bummer, You're an asset when it comes to tech talk, or just laying into someone, lmmfao.

You have taught me many things i'm sure would have been expensive to learn elsewhere.

Thanks!

[GAR]

I spoke too soon - they took my Mod status off for arguing and teasing.. how eGay™ is that~!!!

[BlimpyCHIMP™]

IDIOT

[GAR]

???

[Coyote]

BTW, for those who care:

http://www.mikseri.net/artistit/?id=36197

click on the "Hifi" or "Download" button to hear bran'-spankin' new material by Uzi Diesel. (Except the last one, which is older.)

Tokai Love Rock + Marshall MG100RCD/Behringer Ultrastack BG412S and Fender Strat + Behringer V-ampire

[GAR]

What kind of Fender Strat - stock pickups in it?

[Coyote]

Yeah, I guess. It was the studio's own guitar.

[Nitro Express]

I always liked those original Fender Stratocaster staggered pole pickups. My best sounding Strat has lefty staggered 68 reissue Fender pickups in a righty guitar. So you are kind of getting what Jimmy Hendrix had going in his tone. Take what Leo Fender fussed over and reverse it. Pure magic!

[GAR]

Seymour Duncan says he rewound some strat pickups and gave them to Hendrix's road tech. If he could verify those same pickups' existence in any Jimi guitars in the present day, it could only mean Jimi was one of the first users of Seymour's re-fussing!