Titanium Floyd Rose Big-Blocks are the shiznit.

[Hardrock69]

The "current" EVH strats are 3pc basswood blanks with a veneer on both top and bottom same as the Kramers.

However, any wood played by an asshole could be maligned as "asswood."

This means anything that you play, minge-face!

[jhale667]

Titanium IS the shiznit, but I ain't hatin' on Brass either...

Back on topic...

Decided to leave the Brass Big Block in my Charvel mutt for variety...it definitely has it's own character; doesn't sound as refined (for lack of a better word) as the Ti....it's a little meaner sounding...

http://www.rotharmy.com/forums/gear-street/56288-anyone-tried-recabinet-17.html#post1399486

That track linked in that (linked) post above is all done with the Brass-equipped one, even the lead track...

Both of my H/S Strats will be Ti, though...

[jhale667]

"Brass T(r)acks..sounds like the name of a Judas Priest album!" - DLR

Still gonna say Titanium is my overall fave, but Brass is kickass as well...definitely a little snarlier and a tad more low-end "oomph", IMHO....

Here's a quickie test of a lead preset I made (in PODfarm w/Recabinet), again with the Ash-bodied Brass block-equipped Charvel mutt...

SoundClick artist: Jay Hale - Guitarist, songwriter, guitar-builder



The Koa Strat sounded amazing with a Brass Block, too..but the Ti was just "that one little push over the cliff"....

Very much like ...

[Coyote]

I started wondering...

Do I need some specific Floyd nut for a 12"-16" radius?
Or is it all in the shims?

[jhale667]

I started wondering...

Do I need some specific Floyd nut for a 12"-16" radius?
Or is it all in the shims?

All in the shims, my friend. As long as you get the right R-size for your specific nut width, you're fine.

[Coyote]

Cool. One less thing to worry about...

I was up half the night, and I couldn't find any decent info on that.
But, for some reason, I kept bumping into "the devil's neighbor"...

[Coyote]

dupe.

[jhale667]

Big Blocks =

[GAR]

All in the shims, my friend. As long as you get the right R-size for your specific nut width, you're fine.

That is not necessarily so, at all.

He's talking about whats called a "compound radius" fingerboard and if the radius is 9 or 12 inches at the nut it's a different setup than just playing with shims.

By the way, shims really arent what you want to do anyway. And if you can't read a pair of micrometers, you probably shouldn't be even mentioning nut shims in the first place.

[GAR]

coated springs

Why not coat your own springs by spray painting them yourself?

Or just dipping them in nail polish a couple times.

Personally, I prefer to hear the extra organics of the springs creaking and kinking when the block rotates. I don't know why you'd want to kill that off.. but oh well, to each his stupid own.

[GAR]

That reads pretty silly for Jay: unless the poster pinup gal at Jay's pad comes to visit, he'll have no access to nail polish.

[Coyote]

That is not necessarily so, at all.

He's talking about whats called a "compound radius" fingerboard and if the radius is 9 or 12 inches at the nut it's a different setup than just playing with shims.

By the way, shims really arent what you want to do anyway. And if you can't read a pair of micrometers, you probably shouldn't be even mentioning nut shims in the first place.

That reads like Greek to me... Care to clarify?

[jhale667]

STFU, Tubby.

He's talking about whats called a "compound radius" fingerboard and if the radius is 9 or 12 inches at the nut it's a different setup than just playing with shims.

Yeah, knew what he was talking about GARfail, my necks are 10-16". He'll be fine.

You need a micrometer to find your unit, loser...

[GAR]

That reads like Greek to me... Care to clarify?

Okay: if the nut like most standard Floyds such as the R2 or R5 is based on a standard Stratocaster fingerboard radius of 9" no matter what you do with a shim you're still gonna be higher in the middle if you use a shim than you will be on each E string.

A shim will only do so much, because you have to compensate not only for the height difference in the middle, you gotta angle the taper of concurrent string size decreases towards high E by filing about ten to twelve thousandths from low E to high E sides.. if you use a shim to balance nut height alone, your high E will always be too fucking high, with the middle being MORE "too high" in the middle than on the ends.

Therefore, if you rely on using shims at all, you're losing vibration transfer at the nut from extra junk you don't need between the string and wood, and since you really must file to get action as correct and as low as possible (which takes a lot of time and patience, and some quality files) my point is "why use shims at all?"

[GAR]

You need a micrometer to find your unit, loser...

You need Jenny Craig to find yours, my pear-shaped pantomime!