My new project, it's a "Jem" of a guitar

[indeedido]

I started this project back around November, but I've had several delays. I was fool enough to start two guitars at once, and when winter hit, it bogged me down. Had some issues with a neck I bought, turned out to be a lemon. Luthier tried to rip me off, got my credit card company involved and got my dough back yadda yadda yadda....I've been a fan of Vai and the Jem since the DLR days and always liked the 7VWH, but I can't stand gold hardware. I've had a few Jems over the years, but always liked the 7VWH. So, why spend $2500 for one, when you can make one for under a grand. Sans gold hardware. The body is made of Alder.....So, behold my progress.

[indeedido]

I also don't really care for scalloped frets, so I had a neck made sans scallops. Dig the tree of life. Three piece neck so it will resist warping better than a one piece. Strong! Maple back with slightly flamed maple center. I'm going to finish it with tung oil, that will make it nice and fast/smooth and also set off that flame. Fretboard is ebony.

[indeedido]

Hello sand sealer.....

[jhale667]

Very cool, will be interested to see the progress...post tons of pics!

[indeedido]

After several coats of sand sealer, time to sand and level.

[indeedido]

A lot of you may already know this, but I like to pass the knowledge I've picked up over the years for budding builders. Notice the block in the neck pocket. It is wise to mask off the neck pocket so you don't get a build up of paint in there and then your neck doesn't fit. Also about the block, put a small piece of a shim in there so that your "paint stick" doesn't get sealed against the body and ruin it. I have a stick with a hook on it so I can hang to dry and also handle it with ease.

[jhale667]

Installed the trem bushings pre-finish, I see...

Wood-to-wood contact in the neck pocket transfers string vibration better, also...makes the instrument more resonant.

[indeedido]

[indeedido]

Installed the trem bushings pre-finish, I see...

Yeah, I did a guitar a couple of years ago and put the bushings in after I painted it. Turned out to not be such a good idea as I cracked the finish trying to get them in. Also a good idea to be sure the trem fits into the route for a floating trem. So I installed the bushings and dry fitted everything. Nothing worse than having a body all painted up and shit doesn't fit. Grrrr





Dry fitting

[indeedido]

You know what makes the sanding process more fun??? Smoking a brisket while you sand. Both are long, tedious in process. I slow smoke my briskets with hickory for 8 hours. Here is half of it. Yum!!

[indeedido]

After the sealer coat is level, prime and paint.

[jhale667]

Yeah, I did a guitar a couple of years ago and put the bushings in after I painted it. Turned out to not be such a good idea as I cracked the finish trying to get them in. Also a good idea to be sure the trem fits into the route for a floating trem. So I installed the bushings and dry fitted everything. Nothing worse than having a body all painted up and shit doesn't fit. Grrrr

Exactly, exactly.
Another trick a woodworker buddy of mine taught me was to put a little wood glue on the bushings when you push them in for good; adds a little extra stability. They ain't going anywhere...lol

[GAR]

No guitar of mine has those stupid trempost bushings.

I want to know what the purpose of primer is on a woodgrained item like this, where there is no metal bonding to prime?

It is not necessary. I would go clear coat, then next coating straight to the color.

If it were a silver or gold metallic color, I would use a plain white as a guidecoat behind it. But I would never use primer.

The first time I used primer on a guitar I was 16, also the last time because by the time I was done, the finish was so thick it began cracks at the stress areas of hardware mounting and the neck glue joint.

I don't advise primer, no factory I've visited uses primer only a clear of heavy pigment such as a vinyl acetate lacquer sealer or in the case of most of the rest of the industry, catylized styrene clear that gets cured with hi-uv lights.

[GAR]

Notice the block in the neck pocket.

That sanding block is cleaner than the neck pocket.

[indeedido]

No guitar of mine has those stupid trempost bushings.

I want to know what the purpose of primer is on a woodgrained item like this, where there is no metal bonding to prime?

It is not necessary. I would go clear coat, then next coating straight to the color.

If it were a silver or gold metallic color, I would use a plain white as a guidecoat behind it. But I would never use primer.

The first time I used primer on a guitar I was 16, also the last time because by the time I was done, the finish was so thick it began cracks at the stress areas of hardware mounting and the neck glue joint.

I don't advise primer, no factory I've visited uses primer only a clear of heavy pigment such as a vinyl acetate lacquer sealer or in the case of most of the rest of the industry, catylized styrene clear that gets cured with hi-uv lights.

Do you know anything? Primer helps the paint to bond whether it be metal or wood. Also helps fill in any micro scratch in the sand sealer.

So you would clear coat it, then paint it? Moron.

At 16 I'm sure you figured everything out. It wasn't that your can of Krylon pooped out on you, it was the primer's fault. Sure, the primer was too thick.